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Tizeye

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For my next project. Converting existing aluminum wiring to copper with Alumiconn adapters and while existing co/al switches and plugs would work (since noted that the originals didn't have the co/al markings so may be designed for aluminum only) was switching color from cream to white. Doing 15 amp circuits first so cutting a roll of 14/2 to 6" jumpers for the conversion. Will get some 12/2 wire for the 20amp circuits. May add a new outlet by the front door landing. Also, will absolutely pull the cabinet out and correct a mistake I made as I moved the obsolete compactor outlet up to a counter level outlet rather than burying it behind the new counters, but I used 14/2 wiring rather than 12/2, and since it is a dedicated single device circuit rather than split with multiple outlets, replace the plug to a solo 20 amp plug. Also putting ground fault interrupts in the bathroom...which didn't exist nor code required when the house was built.

 

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Yes, with the exception of the 220 stuff, heat and air were upgraded when new units installed but not going to touch the dryer, hot water heater and range. Will do all the 110, both 15 and 20 amp.

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1 hour ago, donkpow said:

This upgrade is important in some homes. The original aluminum systems resulted in fires.

Yep.

The reason wasn't aluminum. In fact, an electrician pointed out that even today, the line coming into the house from the power company is aluminum. Rather, it was Federal Pacific who faked the data to get the UL approval, resulting in their breakers didn't trip when overloaded. They conveniently declared bankruptcy to avoid the class action lawsuits. We had a few homes burn in our neighborhood and our HOA negotiated a great deal for the homeowners (our expense) with a well respected local electric business to replace which I took advantage of. It was like $200/panel (I had 2 as they had dedicated panels for 120 and 220) but they were in the neighborhood doing volume - thus the low price. Basically, they replaced my Federal Pacific panel and breakers with Square D. Fast forward, it (and Polybutene plumbing) continues as an issue today, which as a Realtor I see with house closings. Essentially,  insurance companies won't write a policy required to close the house sale - owner has to have corrected and no DIY at that stage for the house to close. The few that will insure at an inflated rate, have stipulation when corrected, the rate will be reduced. Then it is on the new owner to get it corrected. While I am not planning to sell my house, I can't competitively shop for insurance with aluminum wires.

This is a classic case of changing the rules to support business. In the early 70s, the price of copper skyrocketed so they changed the building code to allow aluminum. Of course, they (County Code and Permits) won't assume responsibility...but even today their mantra is "We are here to protect you." Rings a little hollow with me.

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The issue is that aluminium expands and contracts more than copper. The device connections that were designed for copper loosen when the aluminium swells, the loose connections cause higher resistance and possibly arcing, either of which can lead to a fire. That is why just replacing the pigtail that connects to the device is considered a fix.

Aluminium is allowed in the larger sizes #6 and up.

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1 hour ago, Further said:

The issue is that aluminium expands and contracts more than copper. The device connections that were designed for copper loosen when the aluminium swells, the loose connections cause higher resistance and possibly arcing, either of which can lead to a fire. That is why just replacing the pigtail that connects to the device is considered a fix.

Aluminium is allowed in the larger sizes #6 and up.

To a certain degree true...but Federal Pacific marketing a defective part is a huge issue which really identified the problem. When they did overheat, the breaker never tripped to prevent the fire.  Aluminum does behave differently from copper in terms of the expansion, it also is subject to oxidation when the two are directly connected.  As a matter of practice, it is recommended to tighten all electrical outlets regularly (every 1-2 years) but of course, no one does it. Likewise when replacing switches an outlets to use co/al, which few people (basic DIYer) know and very difficult to find in Home Depot and Lowes. While I have always known it, historically with both aluminum and copper, I put a dab of anti-oxidant compound on the switch/outlet connection terminals to reduce corrosion and cooling problems. Haven't seen this before but looks like now recommending wrapping electrical tape around the switch/outlet over the terminals which would block arching. I may start doing that. Would never use the push in wire connection option on the switch/outlet, always loop and screw.

The Alumiconn are terminal end bars encased in purple (Aluminum/Copper color code) case. the aluminum and copper never touch plus the anti-oxidant is pre-loaded. That is also why I purchased the torque screwdriver to torque them to spec. Was initially concerned about the bulk of wires in the box, but then realized would be removing the large twist ties in the process of installing and trimming the twists off for a 'clean' 5/16 insertion point. Would not use the purple twist ties in leu of the Alumiconns. While cheaper, they twist aluminum and copper together, inviting problems despite being "approved". 

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