Tizeye Posted January 8, 2021 Share #1 Posted January 8, 2021 The good part about BMW/Mini is that they include scheduled maintenance 3 yr/36 mo in the original MSRP, but unfortunately I an beyond it and first time had to pay for it. Usually I would do an oil change myself but not possible as no US brand (Mobil 1, Castrol, etc) has any oil that meets BMW specs...even in their "European Blend" that meets the specs of all other European car manufacturers. Can order over-priced Amsol and others, only by the Qt/Liter, but total cost with filter is almost as much as the $99 the dealer (or independent foreign garage mechanic) charges, so may as well have the dealer do it. Today was interesting and an all time first. While they normally have the multipoint inspection and "advise" you what else needs to be done. Today, they emailed me a video of my car on a lift back in the service area and did a walkthrough. That was impressive as I am looking at the underside of my car, etc. Only thing they suggested was a tire rotation but deferred as free with Costco tire purchase and only need to schedule it. Now the big question. my 4yr/50K warranty will expire in April or 2000 miles. I remember the used car manager when I worked for Lexus, while talking about Audi, state never own a European car out of warranty, repairs will kill you. So, do I car shop or take my chances? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisL Posted January 8, 2021 Share #2 Posted January 8, 2021 49 minutes ago, Tizeye said: The good part about BMW/Mini is that they include scheduled maintenance 3 yr/36 mo in the original MSRP, but unfortunately I an beyond it and first time had to pay for it. Usually I would do an oil change myself but not possible as no US brand (Mobil 1, Castrol, etc) has any oil that meets BMW specs...even in their "European Blend" that meets the specs of all other European car manufacturers. Can order over-priced Amsol and others, only by the Qt/Liter, but total cost with filter is almost as much as the $99 the dealer (or independent foreign garage mechanic) charges, so may as well have the dealer do it. Today was interesting and an all time first. While they normally have the multipoint inspection and "advise" you what else needs to be done. Today, they emailed me a video of my car on a lift back in the service area and did a walkthrough. That was impressive as I am looking at the underside of my car, etc. Only thing they suggested was a tire rotation but deferred as free with Costco tire purchase and only need to schedule it. Now the big question. my 4yr/50K warranty will expire in April or 2000 miles. I remember the used car manager when I worked for Lexus, while talking about Audi, state never own a European car out of warranty, repairs will kill you. So, do I car shop or take my chances? Would you rather pay a monthly car payment or take your chances with a big hit 1-2X a year? That’s what it boils down to. I had a VW mechanic tell me the same, unload this thing before it’s off warranty... I listened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted January 8, 2021 Share #3 Posted January 8, 2021 I'm usually on top of things and have the right skill set to repair a lot of car problems. From my point of view, I'd look at the numbers. I assume there is a site with facts on your car model. If blown engines or transmissions are an issue, trade it in. If headliners falling down is an issue, keep it and fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizeye Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share #4 Posted January 8, 2021 2 minutes ago, ChrisL said: Would you rather pay a monthly car payment or take your chances with a big hit 1-2X a year? That’s what it boils down to. I had a VW mechanic tell me the same, unload this thing before it’s off warranty... I listened. Car payment would simply be continuation of existing cash flow...just extended. And since no longer putting high mileage on like a Realtor, could even consider a lease...but prefer to own. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisL Posted January 8, 2021 Share #5 Posted January 8, 2021 5 minutes ago, Tizeye said: Car payment would simply be continuation of existing cash flow...just extended. And since no longer putting high mileage on like a Realtor, could even consider a lease...but prefer to own. I’m not a Mini expert by any means but most modern Euro cars need considerable work as they age. Not like a Toyota or Subaru that you can drive for 200K miles with normal service. I currently have a 2013 Subaru Legacy with just over 100K. My wife wants me to keep it 10 more years, “it’s a Subaru & you hardly drive it.” F that, I told her I’m unloading it when I clip 120-130K miles. I don’t want to drive a 17 YO car & I’d rather let a car go with good miles left in it than hold on to a car a bit too long. So if I were you I’d probably start fresh with another car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralphie ★ Posted January 9, 2021 Share #6 Posted January 9, 2021 That is a cool thing ro have the video report, I would like that. I am not much for new cars but I would probably try another brand. My brother had a lot of trouble trying to keep his first generation Mini going for too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Square Wheels Posted January 9, 2021 Share #7 Posted January 9, 2021 I have a 4year 50000 mile warranty on my car, that will get me a couple more years. I will sell it at that time. Will likely move to a Subaru Outback, hope to be able to trade it in and have no car payment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizeye Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share #8 Posted January 9, 2021 3 hours ago, Square Wheels said: I have a 4year 50000 mile warranty on my car, that will get me a couple more years. I will sell it at that time. Will likely move to a Subaru Outback, hope to be able to trade it in and have no car payment. I probably will go a little over trade-in value, but hang on to this for a while and trade between 50 and 55k. Beyond that will have to start looking at tires, and run-flats are not cheap. While like the car will go to another brand, and probably US. What have disliked about the Mini (and sister BMW X1) is officially unapproved for towing - while certified and offered as option in foreign markets. While I wouldn't tow, there is no hitch offered for bike rack, and the 3rd part that made one had to recall the first and now offers a reinforced model - but too late to invest in it. Also, due to the headliner bypass/connection, only Yakama offers a rear hatch mount, but at $250 it is more than a trailer hitch, that absent a bike rack would also support a canoe/kayak 1 man loader. A hitch will be an absolute requirement. Also, will have time to see if also purchasing an RV, and want something that can 4 down pull. That really limits it to almost American only. Must be an SUV for ease of entry and in the 3000 to 3500 lb range for towing. That effectively limits it to the Chevy Equinox (either engine, 65PMH tow limit...and the twin GMC is not approved), Ford Escape Hybrid (not regular gas turbo models, 70 MPH tow limit), and the China made Buick Envision (no MPH tow limit, 2020 model only as 2021 major model change, not stocked yet and owner's manual not published yet to see about recreational towing). A little heavier is the Jeep Cherokee Trailblazer with the disconnect 4WD, not offered in other trims ( easiest to set up for tow, unlimited MPH, but at 4200lb is at the max allowed by Mercedes if got a Sprinter based RV, and the RV favorite, Jeep Wrangler, is even heavier). All those are 3yr/36k mile, but not that critical on US cars. Lincoln would offer a 4yr/50k but the Escape twin, Corsair hybrid will be released in 2021...just none stocked yet. That essentially makes a short list. Below 3000lb are clamshells, and I really am not impressed with 1.3L 3 cylinder engines and similar power offerings. Virtually no European or Asian manufacturer approves their vehicles for recreational towing, with a few exceptions, all with manual transitions - that I could handle, but wife couldn't. Good luck finding a Corolla with a manual transmission and don't expect it to have the options you would want. Wife's Fiat 500 would have resolve the issue and opened up other vehicle options for me...but she had to have an automatic. A manual Subaru Crosstrek rumored to be towable, but their owner's manual so poorly written (pulling with a tow rope on all 4s) that uncertain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizeye Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share #9 Posted January 9, 2021 6 hours ago, Philander Seabury said: That is a cool thing ro have the video report, I would like that. It wasn't a full comprehensive, like examining wiper blades, etc but was impressed for what it did. perhaps this link will work, launched from the email they sent me. https://api.mykaarma.com/video-walkaround/details?inspection_uuid=5ff8986b1bbb270001821741&fileType=image_and_video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted January 9, 2021 Share #10 Posted January 9, 2021 VW Atlas? 5000# towing. When I had the free Subaru courtesy inspection, the guy walked me around under the car to show me the details and answer any of my questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickinMD ★ Posted January 9, 2021 Share #11 Posted January 9, 2021 Synthetic oil generally is good for 7,500 - 10,000 miles and that's what goes in my Honda Fit. I was getting an 0w-20 synthetic oil change about once a year, now it's about once every year and a half, based on my car's computer telling me when my oil has less than 15% of use left. I buy 5 qts of the top-of-the-line synthetic oil from Walmart for $25-$30 and take it to an oil-change garage, as the guy at the garage recommends, so I won't get charged $65 for it. I have them check the other fluids and rotate the tires and tell them not to lower my tire pressure to the officially recommended 32 psi - which is only set to provide the softest ride - and leave it at 36-37 psi, which fitfreak.com says gets and extra 1 mpg with no significant drop in ride comfort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizeye Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share #12 Posted January 9, 2021 3 hours ago, donkpow said: VW Atlas? 5000# towing. That is the Atlas towing something...not the weight of the Atlas (4400# curb weight) being towed which is prohibited on all four wheels anyway. Worse, VW ruined the Touareg (7700# towing) as they replaced it with the Atlas, and I wrenched my back out, limping out of the showroom when climbing out of the third row seat. At least Audi Q7/Q8 and Porsche Cayenne kept the Touareg frame and 7700# towing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizeye Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share #13 Posted January 9, 2021 1 hour ago, MickinMD said: I buy 5 qts of the top-of-the-line synthetic oil from Walmart for $25-$30 and take it to an oil-change garage, as the guy at the garage recommends, so I won't get charged $65 for it. I have them check the other fluids and rotate the tires and tell them not to lower my tire pressure to the officially recommended 32 psi - which is only set to provide the softest ride - and leave it at 36-37 psi, which fitfreak.com says gets and extra 1 mpg with no significant drop in ride comfort. That is what I use to do, except I would crawl under the car and change it myself - OK, the Fiat (and earlier Miata) I roll the front wheels on a ramp. When I had the VW Passat before they bought the diesel back, I did take it to the dealer is as there was no drain plug and the old oil had to be sucked out. The problem is, nothing at WalMart, or even car part stores, carry any oil that meets the BMW LL-01 FE (or older non-FE) standard. Even those labeled "European" don't meet the BMW LL-01 standard. I find that amazing as this is the very popular and highly regarded 2.0L Turbo used is quite a few of it's models. I can order the oil (BMW, Mini or Motul) with filter around $68. That is consistent with the Mini Invoice using 5L of the BMW brand oil plus filter. The just added another $38 for labor. But that is a big difference between Walmart supplied premium oil and picking up a Mann filter. Just FYI - WaWa offers free air! I take the wife's Fiat there, but bought last set of tires for the Mini from Costco and they used nitrogen...but only had to return once to be topped off on the Mini...but air in the Fiat is much more frequent, so swing by WaWa. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longjohn ★ Posted January 10, 2021 Share #14 Posted January 10, 2021 13 hours ago, Tizeye said: Just FYI - WaWa offers free air! I take the wife's Fiat there, but bought last set of tires for the Mini from Costco and they used nitrogen.. Why do they use nitrogen? If they would use helium they could lower the unsprung weight and get better handling. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralphie ★ Posted January 10, 2021 Share #15 Posted January 10, 2021 16 minutes ago, Longjohn said: Why do they use nitrogen? If they would use helium they could lower the unsprung weight and get better handling. Helium is expensive, monn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longjohn ★ Posted January 10, 2021 Share #16 Posted January 10, 2021 45 minutes ago, Philander Seabury said: Helium is expensive, monn. Then use hydrogen, it’s light and cheap, what could go wrong? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizeye Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share #17 Posted January 10, 2021 2 hours ago, Longjohn said: Why do they use nitrogen? If they would use helium they could lower the unsprung weight and get better handling. To prevent me from putting winter and summer air in my tires. The bastides! (I used that line on a new cars salesman trying to upsell nitrogen. He was speechless. ) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickinMD ★ Posted January 10, 2021 Share #18 Posted January 10, 2021 On 1/8/2021 at 3:35 PM, Tizeye said: The good part about BMW/Mini is that they include scheduled maintenance 3 yr/36 mo in the original MSRP, but unfortunately I an beyond it and first time had to pay for it. Usually I would do an oil change myself but not possible as no US brand (Mobil 1, Castrol, etc) has any oil that meets BMW specs...even in their "European Blend" that meets the specs of all other European car manufacturers. Can order over-priced Amsol and others, only by the Qt/Liter, but total cost with filter is almost as much as the $99 the dealer (or independent foreign garage mechanic) charges, so may as well have the dealer do it. Today was interesting and an all time first. While they normally have the multipoint inspection and "advise" you what else needs to be done. Today, they emailed me a video of my car on a lift back in the service area and did a walkthrough. That was impressive as I am looking at the underside of my car, etc. Only thing they suggested was a tire rotation but deferred as free with Costco tire purchase and only need to schedule it. Now the big question. my 4yr/50K warranty will expire in April or 2000 miles. I remember the used car manager when I worked for Lexus, while talking about Audi, state never own a European car out of warranty, repairs will kill you. So, do I car shop or take my chances? Can you do synthetic oil that meets their specs? Since I bought a new Honda Fit in 2013, I've been using synthetic oil for the first time (5 qt. top-of-the-line Mobil or Pennzoil for $25 - $30 at Walmart) and with my 9000 miles or less driving each year, I only have an oil change every year to year and a half. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizeye Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share #19 Posted January 10, 2021 36 minutes ago, MickinMD said: Can you do synthetic oil that meets their specs? Since I bought a new Honda Fit in 2013, I've been using synthetic oil for the first time (5 qt. top-of-the-line Mobil or Pennzoil for $25 - $30 at Walmart) and with my 9000 miles or less driving each year, I only have an oil change every year to year and a half. No...and that is the point. From Mobil 1 website "find your oil" search engine - "Based on what you've told us, your vehicle manufacturer recommends a 0W-20 viscosity and oil that meets BMW Long-Life-14FE+ or and oil that meets BMW Long-Life-17FE+. We currently do not offer any motor oils in the United States that meet these specifications." Castrol - "SORRY! No product recommendations" Pennzoil - Does show their Platinum Euro L Full Synthetic, but upon inspection, available only on 5w-30 (not 0W-20) and documents show compatible with an older BMW standard, and not the current "FE" (fuel efficient) designation. The owner's manual does state that the older specification is OK as an alternative, which is why Pennzoil has it show up in their search engine. Same applies with Quaker and US brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted January 10, 2021 Share #20 Posted January 10, 2021 What's your price limit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted January 10, 2021 Share #21 Posted January 10, 2021 https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/spec-ll-14-fe-0w20 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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