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I just bought a walnut tree


Dirtyhip

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I would consult with local ag agent or county extension agent, etc.   Try to plant native species, non invasives, things adapted to your climate, temperate zone, etc.

If planting fruit trees, make sure to know if pollinator variety is needed and if so, what variety etc.    

Would be cool to plan some sort of grey water system to irrigate your larger trees.

https://greywateraction.org/greywater-reuse/
 

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5 minutes ago, jsharr said:

I would consult with local ag agent or county extension agent, etc.   Try to plant native species, non invasives, things adapted to your climate, temperate zone, etc.

If planting fruit trees, make sure to know if pollinator variety is needed and if so, what variety etc.    

Would be cool to plan some sort of grey water system to irrigate your larger trees.

https://greywateraction.org/greywater-reuse/
 

The garden place I am going to is very good.  They only will sell you things that grow well.  

Cedar trees are native, aspens are native.  The nut trees are just going to be a cold hardy variety.  

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26 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

Bamboo. I hear bamboo is a quick grower :whistle:

But, yeah - what's the local extension office say are the options?  And do you need males and females? 

The walnut self pollinates. 
 

32 minutes ago, Zackny said:

I’ve got 25 hazlenuts and 250 Norway spruce for this years planting.

 

wow. Excellent 

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58 minutes ago, Allen said:

I’m seriously considering planting a grove of Japanese Maples as a small investment. 
Apples should grow well up where you are. 

Should be a money crop down your way.  I wonder if container grown would be easier versus field grown and then balled and burlapped?  Which way were you leaning?  

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I planted a black walnut tree thirty years ago on the corner of our property. I transplanted it from my dad’s property. Once it started producing nuts the squirrels showed up. Next thing I knew I had walnut trees coming up all over our property. Squirrels don’t have a very good memory of where they buried their nuts.

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48 minutes ago, jsharr said:

Should be a money crop down your way.  I wonder if container grown would be easier versus field grown and then balled and burlapped?  Which way were you leaning?  

I want to put them in the ground for 15-20 years. Raise them up to full size and sell them off about the same time that I’ll be needing to reroof the house for the last time. 

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57 minutes ago, 12string said:

Y0u could have saved a ton on your tree budget by just buying those walnut tree seeds they sell in bags at the grocery store.

Put 2 River Birches in this year.  Hoping to help with the water in the basement by getting them to soak up the sponge of a side yard

That walnut would take too long.  I am buying a tree that is at least 7 years old.  It is pretty big.

I kind of want river birch, but Aspens do so well and are natural to the area.  I may plant both.

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23 minutes ago, Dirtyhip said:

You know I live in a frozen wasteland.  Some things do not grow well.  

 

I know, that is why I suggested it.  I forgot coconuts and papaya trees.

You should have a cow, to make cheese for pizza.  And milk for things that require it (instead of that fake oat 'malk' or whatever the hell you call it).

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2 minutes ago, Randomguy said:

I know, that is why I suggested it.  I forgot coconuts and papaya trees.

You should have a cow, to make cheese for pizza.  And milk for things that require it (instead of that fake oat 'malk' or whatever the hell you call it).

I can't have large farm animals.  I am not zoned for it.  I am in the county, with land, but would have to pay this 3 grand fee for rezoning for things like goats. I am zoned for only dogs, cats and chickens.

I am in this pathwork zone of county lots that are just barely outside the city limits.

 

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1 minute ago, Dirtyhip said:

I can't have large farm animals.  I am not zoned for it.  I am in the county, with land, but would have to pay this 3 grand fee for rezoning for things like goats. I am zoned for only dogs, cats and chickens.

I am in this pathwork zone of county lots that are just barely outside the city limits.

 

Can you milk a chicken?

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2 hours ago, Philander Seabury said:

I knew this and planted my black walnut at the far corner of my property. The squirrels didn’t know that and planted them everywhere. I mostly mow the seedlings off before they get very big. I have one in the opposite corner of the property that is about seven feet tall. I decided to leave that one grow.

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18 hours ago, Dirtyhip said:

It is a nice specimen of a English walnut that has been grafted onto a black walnut base.  It is lovely and healthy, but in a smaller pot.  The garden center is going to take care of it for me, until I can dig and plant.  

I am excited.  The squirrels and birds will be excited too.  We are going to plant hazelnut trees as well, and a Ginko and some Aspens down in that soggy zone.  The garden lady warned me that I need a ton of space to plant Aspens.  She said I might have a grove in a few years.  GREAT!!! 

What else should I plant?  I have $1840 left in the tree budget.  

I assume you've got a large enough property that this tree will be away from things sensitive to Black Walnut trees.

All parts of the Black Walnut, including the root, produce a chemical called "juglone," which is strongly damaging to veggies like asparagus, cabbage, eggplant, peas, peppers, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes.  If space is an issue, creating raised garden beds may protect plants from juglone toxins. The toxicity level of juglones may also be decreased when the soil is draining properly.

According to one site:

PLANTS SENSITIVE TO BLACK WALNUT TOXICITY

Annuals and vegetables: asparagus, cabbage, eggplant, flowering tobacco, pepper, petunia, potato, tomato

Herbaceous perennials: autumn crocus, baptisia, columbine, lily (Asian hybrids), peony, rhubarb

Shrubs:  blueberry, red chokeberry, cotoneaster, Amur honeysuckle, hydrangea, lilac, privet, potentilla, rhododendron, yew, and some viburnum shrub species

Trees: European alder, white birch, crabapple species, hackberry, larch, linden, saucer magnolia, mugo pine, red pine, white pine, Norway spruce, silver maple, and some viburnum tree species

English Walnuts also produce juglone, but at a much lower concentration so that few plants are bothered by it.  I do not know what the combination of Black Walnut root plus English Walnut trunk/leaves/etc. means in terms of juglone.

Generally, 80' is considered the safe garden distance for trees harmed by Black Walnut.  Hazelnut trees/shrubs are tolerant of Black Walnut.

Apple trees (Malus domestica), blackberry bushes (Rubus fruticosa ), pears (Pyrus spp.) and blueberry bushes (Vaccinium spp.) are sensitive to juglone and should never be planted near black walnut trees.

 

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2 hours ago, MickinMD said:

I assume you've got a large enough property that this tree will be away from things sensitive to Black Walnut trees.

All parts of the Black Walnut, including the root, produce a chemical called "juglone," which is strongly damaging to veggies like asparagus, cabbage, eggplant, peas, peppers, potatoes, rhubarb and tomatoes.  If space is an issue, creating raised garden beds may protect plants from juglone toxins. The toxicity level of juglones may also be decreased when the soil is draining properly.

According to one site:

PLANTS SENSITIVE TO BLACK WALNUT TOXICITY

Annuals and vegetables: asparagus, cabbage, eggplant, flowering tobacco, pepper, petunia, potato, tomato

Herbaceous perennials: autumn crocus, baptisia, columbine, lily (Asian hybrids), peony, rhubarb

Shrubs:  blueberry, red chokeberry, cotoneaster, Amur honeysuckle, hydrangea, lilac, privet, potentilla, rhododendron, yew, and some viburnum shrub species

Trees: European alder, white birch, crabapple species, hackberry, larch, linden, saucer magnolia, mugo pine, red pine, white pine, Norway spruce, silver maple, and some viburnum tree species

English Walnuts also produce juglone, but at a much lower concentration so that few plants are bothered by it.  I do not know what the combination of Black Walnut root plus English Walnut trunk/leaves/etc. means in terms of juglone.

Generally, 80' is considered the safe garden distance for trees harmed by Black Walnut.  Hazelnut trees/shrubs are tolerant of Black Walnut.

Apple trees (Malus domestica), blackberry bushes (Rubus fruticosa ), pears (Pyrus spp.) and blueberry bushes (Vaccinium spp.) are sensitive to juglone and should never be planted near black walnut trees.

 

This is very helpful.

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2 hours ago, MickinMD said:

English Walnuts also produce juglone, but at a much lower concentration so that few plants are bothered by it.  I do not know what the combination of Black Walnut root plus English Walnut trunk/leaves/etc. means in terms of juglone.

This is an interesting question.  When something is grafted to another thing - ie the English to the Black walnut - which traits are bestowed to the root system?  I would assume, from the graft point down, the original tree type would matter, but from the graft point up, the other tree type would take over.  So, in DH's case, the roots would be the main worry, as the leaves and nuts of the tree would be the milder English walnut.

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4 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

This is an interesting question.  When something is grafted to another thing - ie the English to the Black walnut - which traits are bestowed to the root system?  I would assume, from the graft point down, the original tree type would matter, but from the graft point up, the other tree type would take over.  So, in DH's case, the roots would be the main worry, as the leaves and nuts of the tree would be the milder English walnut.

The bottom is black walnut.  It is done for cold resistance.  Most of the walnuts down in the orchards of the Central Valley are grafted like this.  A tru tree is always best, but you get some good traits this way.  My zone is cold, and I don't want to shell black walnut. I don't even know how you do that.  A hammer?

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I don't want to shell black walnut. I don't even know how you do that.  A hammer?

You have to husk them first. My grandad always dumped a bag of them in the driveway and ran over them every time he came and went. The tires would strip the husk off them  But wouldn’t crack the shell. 

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5 hours ago, Longjohn said:

You have to husk them first. My grandad always dumped a bag of them in the driveway and ran over them every time he came and went. The tires would strip the husk off them  But wouldn’t crack the shell. 

My grandad had huge gauntlet gloves that he wore when he smashed the hulls off on some concrete steps. That green stuff was horribly staining. What a -:;)$ mess!  And THEN you had to deal with the rock-hard and very abrasive black shells. Has to be the most well-protected nut ever!  If squirrels can peel those with their teeth they are way more bad-ass than I thought!

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  • 8 months later...
On 1/27/2021 at 4:11 PM, Allen said:

I’m seriously considering planting a grove of Japanese Maples as a small investment. 
Apples should grow well up where you are. 

A couple of my brothers are growing trees in a similar manner. Rosewood and teak I believe.  No not teak. I cannot remember. Maryland pays them to use the land for trees. 
 

Acorn baring oaks are essential for turkeys. I would plant a couple of those. 

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4 hours ago, Longjohn said:

So @Dirtyhip how did your walnut trees do their first summer at your new place?

One died.  It was the one with the small root system.  I think I asked my husband to kill it.  I asked him to move the tree, after it was planted.  Maybe it was because we didn't stake it.  The wind is relentless up here. Who knows.  We will be replacing it next year.  Maybe it isn't dead, but very sickly looking.

All the other trees did well.  We just put in a new hazelnut.  

1 hour ago, Digital_photog said:

Buckeyes. I have a nice supply of buckeye seeds and am starting a supply of trees.

I'm not sure they would do very well in your area.

 

Maybe I will plant one in the low section of our property.  Nuts look edible from what I see.

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On 1/27/2021 at 6:01 PM, Allen said:

I want to put them in the ground for 15-20 years. Raise them up to full size and sell them off about the same time that I’ll be needing to reroof the house for the last time. 

Walnut - "On good sites young trees may grow 3 to 4 feet in height per year, and in 20 years may attain heights of 40 to 50 feet with diameter of 6 to 10 inches."

 

That's not much lumber.

 

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Why did you get an English Walnut grafted to Black Walnut root?

Make sure you check to see which other plants can be planted near the Walnut tree.  Walnuts are known as "killer trees" and the Black Walnut's root is the strongest killer.  Black Walnut root produces a chemical called juglone as a defense mechanism that kills a lot of other plants and seeds that are close to it.

I've seen yards with black walnut trees that are full of plants - but they give the Walnut some distance.

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2 hours ago, MickinMD said:

Why did you get an English Walnut grafted to Black Walnut root?

Make sure you check to see which other plants can be planted near the Walnut tree.  Walnuts are known as "killer trees" and the Black Walnut's root is the strongest killer.  Black Walnut root produces a chemical called juglone as a defense mechanism that kills a lot of other plants and seeds that are close to it.

I've seen yards with black walnut trees that are full of plants - but they give the Walnut some distance.

I think that the toxicity of black walnut trees is over rated. White pine is one on the plants susceptible to their toxins and I have one growing right next to a huge black walnut. I do know you need to wear a good mask when sawing black walnut and the juice from the husks not only stains your hands but will make your skin peel off. Black walnuts are wonderful in ice cream which I don’t eat anymore. 

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22 hours ago, MickinMD said:

Why did you get an English Walnut grafted to Black Walnut root?

Make sure you check to see which other plants can be planted near the Walnut tree.  Walnuts are known as "killer trees" and the Black Walnut's root is the strongest killer.  Black Walnut root produces a chemical called juglone as a defense mechanism that kills a lot of other plants and seeds that are close to it.

I've seen yards with black walnut trees that are full of plants - but they give the Walnut some distance.

Carpathian is a more tender variety, but they shell easily.  Black walnut is very cold hardy.  The graft gives you the best of both worlds.  Black Walnuts are too hard to shell and deal with if you want to eat the nuts.  I will be hand cracking them when they start to produce.

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