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Car battery died this morning


MickinMD

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I went out to start my car to drive to a blood test and it wouldn't turn over.  I think I'll be ok rescheduling the test for Monday.

The permanently-sealsed, 9 year-old battery has seemed slow lately but the car starts quickly after turning over about twice so I wasn't sure there was a problem. I guess 17°F this morning slowed it down too much.

So I'll to remove the battery, call around to see which auto parts dealer has a good replacement - the 2013 Honda Fit has an unusually shaped battery - wait until around noon to get my sister and BiL to drive me to exchange it for a new one, put the new one in and look up the security code I may have to reenter through the radio's 6 buttons: the car resets when power is cut off, but the key and it's coding may do the job.

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Before our February snowmobile trip UP north, I plan to replace the itty bitty three year old factory installed battery in our SUV. Between heated seats/steering wheel, trailer lights, all the other electronic gadgets, etc, that itty battery is stretched pretty thin. It always seems to crank a little slowish, even in the summer. They even left plenty of extra room in the battery box for a larger battery. Anything to save a little extra money and weight from the factory I guess. Plus the last few February trips the temps were in the minus 20s, colder at night. Besides, asking our son to give me a jump start with his huge fancy pants luxury SUV is out of the question. ;) 

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5 minutes ago, Old No. 7 said:

@MickinMD is there a Batteries+Bulbs near you? They carry automotive batteries and may have just the one you're looking for.

 

For my last one I limped into an advance auto and they replaced it for me. That was nice. What is amazing is I stopped for gas on the way there, stupidly forgetting I had intended to go directly to get it replaced without stopping anywhere or even passing Go. I was very lucky to get away with that bozo move. :D

 

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In 2020, I was thinking of doing a drive through the Southwest and ending up at my cousin's house in Las Vegas and would have replaced the 7 year-old battery before I went.

Then the pandemic hit, I hardly did any driving, and since the battery worked ok, I let it ride.

Being retired, it's nice to have the battery die on a day I don't have to do anything major - there's no missed-appointment charge for the blood test I missed and I got it rescheduled for Monday and the followup with the doctor for the following Monday.

Autozone has 3 of my odd-shaped batteries in stock, says they don't sell fast and I could get one anytime today. They say that if I can get the car started and drive it 1 1/4 miles from my home to there, they'll change the battery for me.

I'm going to wait for the temperature to get to the 20's and see if I can start the car.  I have jumper cables but don't want to do that in case the car stalls for some reason on the way to Autozone - I'm in no hurry.

Otherwise, I've got to wait for my sister and BiL to get back from chemotherapy around 4 pm or get a neighbor or brother to run me over and exchange the battery.

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That was me two weeks ago...dead battery. At least you can replace it. I've replaces many, including on wife's Fiat 4 months ago, so I have the tools and not an issue with me. Not the case with my now out of warranty Mini (designed off the BMW X1 chassis). While independent shops probably could, it essentially is a dealer only proposition. Even the auto parts store with "free installation" exclude it noting special requirements.  So just what is the special requirement? The computer has to be re-programed to recognize the new battery. Apparently, as the battery ages, the computer adjust alternator and other components to compensate for the declining output of the battery and needs to be reset. So much for DIY on a simple rip out and replace operation.

To make matters worse, during the videoed examination of other components, it noted deteriorated engine mounts. Service manager stated could wait until next oil change (due in 7000 miles) and revisit. Estimated price for engine mounts is $1100 plus oil change. Never had engine mounts go out on me in any car - ever - but replaced once already in the Mini under warranty.  Speaking of oil change, something I can't (not economical) do myself despite having the tools. No US auto oil company offers in the US oil the meets BMW spec...including their 'euro' offering designed for European cars. That eliminated the inexpensive 5L jug at WalMart  and auto stores $25-30. Mini/BMW branded and a couple foreign imported oils are sold only in single liter container and a 6L plus filter package at amazon and other auto online sources cost $87, Where Mini will typically run an oil change special for $99.

I think I need a new car, but unfortunately, inventory chip shortage limits options.  Also, by the time of the oil change in 7000 miles (70k on odometer) tires - runflats - will probably become a replacement issue and don't even want to think about the brake wear indicator light coming on as I replaced the fronts (DIY) at around 30k miles. Just waiting for that to happen as it doesn't have the traditional scraper attached to the brake pads, but a separate electronic probe that wears down and eventually shorts turning the brake change light/icon on.

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11 minutes ago, ChrisL said:

So none of you have AAA?  When our batteries crap out I call AAA and tell them my battery died.  They send the battery truck out & presto chango new battery.  

I’m sure I’m paying more for the battery but it’s worth it to me. 

I have it but have never had to use it for that.  One year we maxed oot our service calls on lockout calls! Along with maybe a tow or two!  That was when we were taking the daughters everywhere for activities and such.  After that year I learned to always lock the car with the fob, never with the inside door handle so that I am assured that I have my keys.  They had fallen oot of my pocket between the seats.  Recently my wife bought some pads that fill the gap between the seats and the center console and fit over the seat belt latch, so that shouldn't happen again.

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3 minutes ago, Philander Seabury said:

After that year I learned to always lock the car with the fob, never with the inside door handle so that I am assured that I have my keys.

When I got my 2013 Honda Fit, replacing my 1997 Ford Taurus - both bought new, the Fit was my first car with a remote keyfob.

I went for 10 mile bike ride and, on returning to the car, notice my key wasn't in the wristwallet I keep it in.  I cycled a mile back down the trail looking for the keys and didn't find them.

As I walked up to my car, I saw the keys lying on the front passenger seat.  My next thought was, "Since I always lock the door remotely, how did I lock the door?"

Of course, it was unlocked!  I had initially forgotten my water bottle when I began my ride, rushed back to the car to get it, and left the keys on the seat.

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4 minutes ago, MickinMD said:

When I got my 2013 Honda Fit, replacing my 1997 Ford Taurus - both bought new, the Fit was my first car with a remote keyfob.

I went for 10 mile bike ride and, on returning to the car, notice my key wasn't in the wristwallet I keep it in.  I cycled a mile back down the trail looking for the keys and didn't find them.

As I walked up to my car, I saw the keys lying on the front passenger seat.  My next thought was, "Since I always lock the door remotely, how did I lock the door?"

Of course, it was unlocked!  I had initially forgotten my water bottle when I began my ride, rushed back to the car to get it, and left the keys on the seat.

Wow, that was pretty darn lucky you still had a car!  Talk about a potential crime of opportunity!  
 

I was in the habit of locking with the inside door handle up until 2014, so it took that incident to get me in the remote locking mode. 

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35 minutes ago, Tizeye said:

That was me two weeks ago...dead battery. At least you can replace it. I've replaces many, including on wife's Fiat 4 months ago, so I have the tools and not an issue with me. Not the case with my now out of warranty Mini (designed off the BMW X1 chassis). While independent shops probably could, it essentially is a dealer only proposition. Even the auto parts store with "free installation" exclude it noting special requirements.  So just what is the special requirement? The computer has to be re-programed to recognize the new battery. Apparently, as the battery ages, the computer adjust alternator and other components to compensate for the declining output of the battery and needs to be reset. So much for DIY on a simple rip out and replace operation.

To make matters worse, during the videoed examination of other components, it noted deteriorated engine mounts. Service manager stated could wait until next oil change (due in 7000 miles) and revisit. Estimated price for engine mounts is $1100 plus oil change. Never had engine mounts go out on me in any car - ever - but replaced once already in the Mini under warranty.  Speaking of oil change, something I can't (not economical) do myself despite having the tools. No US auto oil company offers in the US oil the meets BMW spec...including their 'euro' offering designed for European cars. That eliminated the inexpensive 5L jug at WalMart  and auto stores $25-30. Mini/BMW branded and a couple foreign imported oils are sold only in single liter container and a 6L plus filter package at amazon and other auto online sources cost $87, Where Mini will typically run an oil change special for $99.

I think I need a new car, but unfortunately, inventory chip shortage limits options.  Also, by the time of the oil change in 7000 miles (70k on odometer) tires - runflats - will probably become a replacement issue and don't even want to think about the brake wear indicator light coming on as I replaced the fronts (DIY) at around 30k miles. Just waiting for that to happen as it doesn't have the traditional scraper attached to the brake pads, but a separate electronic probe that wears down and eventually shorts turning the brake change light/icon on.

I had a Chrsyler Concorde that you had to remove the right front tire to access a hatch that you had to remove the cover for in order to access the battery.  It did have charging / jump starting contacts under the hood.   My current Chrysler 300 has the battery mounted in a comparment in the trunk, which is a bit more convenient and it also has contacts under the hood that you can attach charger leads or jumper cables too.

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5 hours ago, MickinMD said:

and look up the security code I may have to reenter through the radio's 6 buttons:

If you put a battery booster on the battery terminals while the battery is out it may maintain the voltage to the car's electronics so you don't have to take a chance with the codes.

image.png.d4a33634a557430b5892ab0dcc38aa3a.png

You may have to tape the clamp terminals on the battery cable terminals so they don't accidentally come off.

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3 hours ago, MickinMD said:

When I got my 2013 Honda Fit, replacing my 1997 Ford Taurus - both bought new, the Fit was my first car with a remote keyfob.

I went for 10 mile bike ride and, on returning to the car, notice my key wasn't in the wristwallet I keep it in.  I cycled a mile back down the trail looking for the keys and didn't find them.

As I walked up to my car, I saw the keys lying on the front passenger seat.  My next thought was, "Since I always lock the door remotely, how did I lock the door?"

Of course, it was unlocked!  I had initially forgotten my water bottle when I began my ride, rushed back to the car to get it, and left the keys on the seat.

Since the battery just clunked oot today, I'd say if you start w/ a jump, let it run for 20 minutes, then driving it that short distance will be fine. Starting it is a heavy load.

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52 minutes ago, bikeman564™ said:

Since the battery just clunked oot today, I'd say if you start w/ a jump, let it run for 20 minutes, then driving it that short distance will be fine. Starting it is a heavy load.

My neighbor asked me if I want a jump, but since my sister's going to be here in a couple hours, Autozone says it has the battery in stock and is less than 10 minutes away, I'll just go there and exchange the battery, which I had no trouble removing from the car.

It was easy to loosen or remove the 4 nuts needed to remove the terminals and loosen the clamp that locked the battery in place - almost no corrosion at all after 9 years - and a small needle-nose locking pliers worked perfectly when there wasn't room around one nut for a socket wrench!

It was really cold - in the teens - but no wind and it was a quick job so it wasn't uncomfortable with a hooded jacket and gloves on.

I have no need to go anywhere until Monday and in an emergency I've got a few good neighbors.  I made sure to write down the 5 digit security code I store on my laptop and phone that the car's computer may demand I punch in through the numbers station selection buttons on the radio.  When that happens, the word "code" appears on the radio's display when I try to start the car.

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