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Caulking question


petitepedal
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So..I re caulked my kitchen sink...probably 15 years ago..it was my first attempt and not well done..and now it is turning black in some places and..I need to do it over...I am open for advice on getting the stuff off :wacko:...it is in better shape than the original that I replaced..

Thanks...so far I have used a paring knife :whistle:

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When I've needed to do it in the past, I got a special caulk remover tool from Amazon, but that was for a shower and not a sink.  But I guess it could work.

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Sharp plastic scraper so you don’t damage the counter.  Then scrub with silicone remover and a plastic Brillo.  You want to get it all off.  I then wipe it all with alcohol, let dry and Caulk it.  I remove the sink to do it though because that is where the mold starts.  You need basic plumbing skills to do that though. 

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22 minutes ago, Wilbur said:

Sharp plastic scraper so you don’t damage the counter.  Then scrub with silicone remover and a plastic Brillo.  You want to get it all off.  I then wipe it all with alcohol, let dry and Caulk it.  I remove the sink to do it though because that is where the mold starts.  You need basic plumbing skills to do that though. 

This. Black means mold and need to remove.

Next  question is why was caulked in first place. Correct installation is a bead of plumbers putty with the sink dropped on it, trimming excess that squeezed out, giving a clean look. Lifting the sink to re-bead with putty requires basic plumbing skills (disconnect drain or drop garbage disposal, thankfully faucets remain attached but unscrew supply line hoses). Then there is the issue of weight (cast iron vs steel/aluminum) and popping loose if putty originally used. Don’t need to remove, just lift high enough (rest on brick) to scrape away old putty and caulk, lay a new bead of putty (the putty is rolled to bead with hands like play doh) and drop sink, trimming excess that squeezes out.

Back to the original, I typically use a razor scraper to to detach from both the counter and sink (or more likely since don’t use on sink - tub and wall) and pull the bead away. Fine clean edge again with razor scraper and clean with liquid remover designed for caulk as others, like paint thinner, may interact with new bead. I typically even out the bead with my finger but the do make attachment to do that. When dry, even razor line On sink and counter thinnest caulk point for clean appearance.

Next question? 15+ year old caulk…condition of sink, scratched metal or chipped ceramic eyesore and need to be replaced? Then the first paragraph would apply but be sure to attach the faucets to the new sink before dropped into place. Replacing faucets on an installed sink is a pain and requires a special wrench to reach up there. No caulk needed with plumber putty on sink install, making it ultra clean.

Finally, if the current sink is cast iron, may be able to force press some putty in the seam and trim even. Metl sink is typically too flush.

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Hmmm....I'm not sure there was a good install on the sink :dontknow: it was caulked when I bought it..

It is ceramic...the laminate counter is in good shape..the sink isn't too bad..cleans up well...if I swapped it out...I'd get rid of the disposal..I replaced that myself in 08.

 

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This is the front..in part caused cos I used a clear caulk and not a colored one..I am gonna slowly work at it ...and may or may not replace it..I think it was caulked cos there is a gap..but I don't  remember..I just redid it a year or two after I moved in...

20220320_084630.jpg

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4 hours ago, petitepedal said:

This is the front..in part caused cos I used a clear caulk and not a colored one..I am gonna slowly work at it ...and may or may not replace it..I think it was caulked cos there is a gap..but I don't  remember..I just redid it a year or two after I moved in...

20220320_084630.jpg

I would clean as much of that out as could, the deeper the better with a combination scraper and finish with razor. Clean for new application. While not necessary, would consider spraying with mold/mildew remover or final clorox bleach rinse. Caulk has mildew deterent in it, but this would be additive. Plumbers putty is gray so wouldn't use. Get some cream colored caulking from Home Depot/Lowes. Run finger along caulked edge for even finish, then razor to score straight line edge on counter and sink and remove the excess.  

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