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I rode a boke today


Square Wheels

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I rode to my new job (I'm still off).  Not too bad, pretty scenery, lots of cotton fields.  About 12.5 miles, 50 minutes.

I will never do it again.  One of the worst rides ever.  The roads were so rough I thought my teeth were going to fall out.  Riding in the drops felt dangerous, I didn't think I'd be able to hold on.  About 80% of the ride was awful.

I'm pretty bummed as I have a shower at work and planned to ride in regularly during the good weather times, at least once or twice a week.

I need a new plan.

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4 minutes ago, dinneR said:

You changed the thread title to bike from boke. My post isn't as funny any longer. Please change it back. I need the accolades. 

Man, it's BIKE.  I refuse to support purposeful ignorance! Next think you'll be requesting an A for effort!

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2 minutes ago, Square Wheels said:

Only because I like you.

You're the best!

 

3 minutes ago, Square Wheels said:

I have 28s on my current bike.  I can't imagine going up a little bit would help that much.

I commute on 56s or 2.2" tires. It's a bomber set up. 40s would be awesome and they'd make the bumps have less of an impact.

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33 minutes ago, Square Wheels said:

One of the worst rides ever.  The roads were so rough I thought my teeth were going to fall out.

Have you ever ridden on a tar and chip road?  We have LOTS of those here.  They are dangerous on a road bike just after they add new stone to the road.  It takes a few weeks for the car traffic to mash the stone into the old road.   In the meantime.. LOTS of loose gravel.    Even weeks after the road is little bit better, but then there is a 2 inch pile of stone along the sides of the roads.  Then I just I ride in the tire tracks of the traffic.

I ride a road bike here.  Recently my favorite route was not rideable.    In our township the roads were OK,  (the picture below)  I rode 2 miles south got to the next township.  Yeah they added stone to the road.  Nope... not riding on that. Loose gravel and a road bike... not a good idea.  I changed my route... and found a way.   I could ride my MTB, 

20200623_095709.thumb.jpg.cb182b9aba0fab0e30b3d783c0ac099a.jpg

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Sorry wheels but this is probably a good time to think suspension bike on big tires.  When outfitted with tires other than knobbies they can be quick on chipseal and rough roads without killing your back.  There are variations in bars if you can't stand flat bars.  There are some good reasonably light cross country bikes out there.  I rode these for years before they did significant upgrades to my trails.

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Some people enjoy bumpy roads. Seriously, consider wider tires, and lower pressure. I rode gravel and bumpy roads all the time. You don't need to spend a ton on a commuter for this style of riding. It's possible that you have the wrong machine for that kind of use. 

I would still opt to figure out a way to ride. It is good for the mind and soul.

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21 minutes ago, dinneR said:

If it is really bad, flat bars can be nice. My seek can handle light MTB trails. I've got a smaller MTB tire on the front. It's rigid, but can handle most of what I put it through. I have many thousands of miles on it. It is very reliable. Metal fenders and rack on the back. It's awesome. I have broken several sets of fenders, some parts, and wore out the wheelset.  It still goes and goes. 

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6 minutes ago, Dirtyhip said:

If it is really bad, flat bars can be nice. My seek can handle light MTB trails. I've got a smaller MTB tire on the front. It's rigid, but can handle most of what I put it through. I have many thousands of miles on it. It is very reliable. Metal fenders and rack on the back. It's awesome. I have broken several sets of fenders, some parts, and wore out the wheelset.  It still goes and goes. 

Available with a drop or flat bar

4130 All-Road - Flat Bar - Pacific Gold (650b / 700c)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Getting back to the real topic - @Square Wheels - I VERY STRONGLY encourage you to get a gravel bike.  Maybe not until you are settled into the house and comfortable at work, but as soon as reasonable after that.  Your commute - by bike - if safe and not too long and with showers can be the IDEAL situation for both getting "free" exercise, and a great mental health benefit as well.

Please consider it as a real option.  

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Just now, Razors Edge said:

Getting back to the real topic - @Square Wheels - I VERY STRONGLY encourage you to get a gravel bike.  Maybe not until you are settled into the house and comfortable at work, but as soon as reasonable after that.  Your commute - by bike - if safe and not too long and with showers can be the IDEAL situation for both getting "free" exercise, and a great mental health benefit as well.

Please consider it as a real option.  

How will a bike, very similar to what I have, make that ride better?

You know when you hit those divets they cut into the sides of the highways with your car?  They car rattles.  That's the way I felt for almost an hour.

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There are some streets in town that I prefer to take my Bridgestone. 30 year old MTB with no suspension but 26 X 1.95 tires. I have Kenda K-Rad tires at 30-35 psi. It’s a very comfortable and pretty efficient package. It mutes the nastiness that can be pretty rough on the road bike. 

0C38BF47-B5BE-4D56-8866-71C88A8C8CEB.jpeg

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On 10/6/2022 at 2:30 PM, Bikeguy said:

Have you ever ridden on a tar and chip road?  We have LOTS of those here.  They are dangerous on a road bike just after they add new stone to the road.  It takes a few weeks for the car traffic to mash the stone into the old road.   In the meantime.. LOTS of loose gravel.    Even weeks after the road is little bit better, but then there is a 2 inch pile of stone along the sides of the roads.  Then I just I ride in the tire tracks of the traffic.

I ride a road bike here.  Recently my favorite route was not rideable.    In our township the roads were OK,  (the picture below)  I rode 2 miles south got to the next township.  Yeah they added stone to the road.  Nope... not riding on that. Loose gravel and a road bike... not a good idea.  I changed my route... and found a way.   I could ride my MTB, 

20200623_095709.thumb.jpg.cb182b9aba0fab0e30b3d783c0ac099a.jpg

Tar and chip is bad stuff. 

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7 hours ago, Square Wheels said:

How will a bike, very similar to what I have, make that ride better?

You know when you hit those divets they cut into the sides of the highways with your car?  They car rattles.  That's the way I felt for almost an hour.

The tires, specifically tire volume will make a considerable difference.  I know a few milliliters doesn’t sound like much but when you can pressure them down 30 psi or more you feel it.  I run 36mm tires at 40 psi on the road and it’s smooth smooth.  Factor in a frame designed to be more forgiving on gravel, maybe thicker bar tape and you have an overall smoother ride. 

But it really boils down to how important is that bike commute to you?  Is it worth the cost of a new bike?  

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17 hours ago, Square Wheels said:

How will a bike, very similar to what I have, make that ride better?

Pretty much what Chris writes below:

10 hours ago, ChrisL said:

The tires, specifically tire volume will make a considerable difference.  I know a few milliliters doesn’t sound like much but when you can pressure them down 30 psi or more you feel it.  I run 36mm tires at 40 psi on the road and it’s smooth smooth.  Factor in a frame designed to be more forgiving on gravel, maybe thicker bar tape and you have an overall smoother ride. 

But it really boils down to how important is that bike commute to you?  Is it worth the cost of a new bike?  

All of this is my experience (including the cost/benefit stuff).

If you've ever ridden a MTB - with fat meaty tires at lower PSI - you understand how that "smooths out" the terrain. Obviously, those usually add suspension to the mix too, but my old school MTB has no suspension at all, but fat 2.1" tires that make it a bazillion times more comfortable on a rooty, rutted, and/or rocky trail vs my road bike with 25mm tires.  A gravel bike will fall in between those - say a 38 or 43 tire at somewhere in the 30+psi range.    

And almost any "wider" tire bike will do - from a hybrid to an MTB to a cross or a gravel bike.  As an experiment, you could likely put the max width tires on your Trek and set them up tubeless (probably an option) and drop the PSI to 40-ish.  So a 32 or 35 at 45psi will be a very noticeable improvement from a 28 @ 90psi or whatever you are running now.

So, while the gravel bike gives you a lot of new riding opportunities, you can baby step it if you want. A couple hundred bucks towards a tubeless and wider road set-up is a fine first step, but realistically will never reach what you get with the even wider options out there. It will at least demonstrate that crappy roads can be tamed just like gravel roads and single track are tamed.

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9 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

Pretty much what Chris writes below:

All of this is my experience (including the cost/benefit stuff).

If you've ever ridden a MTB - with fat meaty tires at lower PSI - you understand how that "smooths out" the terrain. Obviously, those usually add suspension to the mix too, but my old school MTB has no suspension at all, but fat 2.1" tires that make it a bazillion times more comfortable on a rooty, rutted, and/or rocky trail vs my road bike with 25mm tires.  A gravel bike will fall in between those - say a 38 or 43 tire at somewhere in the 30+psi range.    

And almost any "wider" tire bike will do - from a hybrid to an MTB to a cross or a gravel bike.  As an experiment, you could likely put the max width tires on your Trek and set them up tubeless (probably an option) and drop the PSI to 40-ish.  So a 32 or 35 at 45psi will be a very noticeable improvement from a 28 @ 90psi or whatever you are running now.

So, while the gravel bike gives you a lot of new riding opportunities, you can baby step it if you want. A couple hundred bucks towards a tubeless and wider road set-up is a fine first step, but realistically will never reach what you get with the even wider options out there. It will at least demonstrate that crappy roads can be tamed just like gravel roads and single track are tamed.

I'll consider it.  Not looking to buy a new bike though.

I hate the idea of tubeless.  It seems like a nightmare if you get a real flat that the goop can't handle.

Suggestions for a bike?

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17 hours ago, Square Wheels said:

How will a bike, very similar to what I have, make that ride better?

https://lynskeyperformance.com/gr300-gravel-bike-grx-810-2x-free-titanium-upgrades-limited-offer/
This is what I have. They are on sale right not. My other two bikes are faster, my roads probably make yours look great. I ride my Lynskey for 90% of my rides. You wouldn’t believe how much better a titanium frame and 700-40 tires smooth out the road. 

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10 minutes ago, Square Wheels said:

I hate the idea of tubeless.  It seems like a nightmare if you get a real flat that the goop can't handle.

 

They shipped my bike tubeless ready but with tubes in the tires and the valve stems and instructions to make the tires tubeless. I figured if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. I figured I would at least ride it until I got my first flat and then decide. My back tire is about worn out and still no flats. I’ll probably stick with tubes. I ride with 40 psi most of the time (reccommended)but the tires are rated for up to 85 psi. I ran them at 70 psi on a relatively smooth 73 mile ride, I didn’t notice a whole lot of difference.

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55 minutes ago, Square Wheels said:

I'll consider it.  Not looking to buy a new bike though.

I hate the idea of tubeless.  It seems like a nightmare if you get a real flat that the goop can't handle.

Suggestions for a bike?

I’d check to see the widest tires your bike can handle and start their. Pressure them down and see how they feel.  I know tubeless can be a PITA so maybe get tubeless ready tires (assuming your current wheels are also tubeless) and run them with tubes.  If you find yourself getting pinch flats then consider converting to tubeless.   Knowing nothing about the roads & trails in TN this may help you on regular rides too.

If I was looking for a bike to commute to work and didn’t want my teeth rattled I’d likely go with a entry level hard tail MTB with slicks.  Let the suspension fork & wider tires take the shock & road vibration out and as it’s a commuter so you don’t have to stress as much over a $600 bike than a $6,000 one.   

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2 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

Or make @bikeman564™ a bit jealous by getting a Cannondale Topstone with a Lefty fork and rear "Kingpin" suspension.  :D  As they write:

Where it thrives

Gravel and Dirt Roads, Rough Pavement, Trails

 

Nice bike for sure.

One drawback to the lefty IMO, that I recently found out is. To take the wheel off you need to remove the caliper:blink: Because it slides off the axle and the rotor prohibits that. Just something to think aboot.

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