Jump to content

Our offer was accepted on our new house


Dottleshead

Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, Thaddeus Kosciuszko said:

Aluminum wires in the electrical box are ok if those aluminum wires are the service conductors (attached to the main breaker, coming from the utility) or are larger conductors such as those that would supply the electrical furnace, dryer, or stove.

Aluminum wires running to outlets in the house can be a fire hazard, but they don't have to be.  Just recognize the material you're working with.  Aluminum wire is limited in the current it can carry; often unknowing people push it past its current rating.  Aluminum wiring requires special techniques to connect it to outlets, switches, and copper wiring.  Any terminals or connectors must carry a stamp or label of AL/CU.  A non-oxidizing compound must be used to make up the wiring connections between copper and aluminum wiring to prevent oxidation and corrosion. Aluminum wiring, particularly of the era your is, is also more apt to metal fatigue - it's not a flexible as copper and must be treated accordingly to avoid breakage. There's more to it, but this gives you the idea that it can be managed.

Note though, that many insurance companies will not issue policies for houses with aluminum wiring, or will charge a premium.  Some insurance companies require a visit by their own inspector or a copy of the inspection report before they will issue the policy.  It might be worth checking to see if this condition will raise your premium.

Thanks for the info.  AFAIK, this is a single case only in the electrical box only and not running in the house.  My feeling is we would replace it just to play it safe.  Again, I need to see the report to be sure which one it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, dotman17 said:

Another side note is the house is recessed from the street level and consequently the driveway has a slope to it.  The apex of the grade used to keep the water from rolling off the street actually comes in contact with the bottom frame of our car as we enter the driveway from the street.  Because we have one of those stupid newer models that are to aerodynamic for their own good, our clearance sucks.  Consequently, we'd have to get this fixed as well.  This clearly is all our problem but I'm just saying that if we want to use the garage (and who wouldn't?), then we have to fix the driveway issue too.  i suspect it isn't a big deal cost wise but nonetheless it is something we have to deal with.  Either that or use our garage as large bike container and park the car along the street.

A sheet of plywood and a couple 2 by 4s should fix this.  That's how they do things in Texas.  Jsharr should be able to help.

A pic with Jsharr's red pick'em up in it.  If you don't want to spring for the plywood, Jsharr can help you with a pallet version of the same thing.

garageF.jpg

  • Heart 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Wilbur said:

The roof doesn't look bad at all in that picture.  I would like to see the area the inspector is talking about.  Simple roof line though.  DIY project if you had the time and a couple of helpers. 

From what I understand (and I still don't have the report yet) is that the roof plywood was upgraded last time and that's not in bad shape.  But the shingles on it are wearing badly in places and it appears they have been using a power washer to clean it (bad idea).  Again, I only have second hand info from my wife and have not seen the actual report or even been able to talk to my realtor or the inspector but am under the impression an entire new roof here is not needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, dotman17 said:

From what I understand (and I still don't have the report yet) is that the roof plywood was upgraded last time and that's not in bad shape.  But the shingles on it are wearing badly in places and it appears they have been using a power washer to clean it (bad idea).  Again, I only have second hand info from my wife and have not seen the actual report or even been able to talk to my realtor or the inspector but am under the impression an entire new roof here is not needed.

Ya know... We have had experience with some asphalt shingles that curled horribly but weren't all that old. It IS frustrating for sure. As long as the plywood underneath is good, that saves a lot.

  • Heart 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Curling is normally a moisture issue.  Anywhere one roof drains onto another is problematic.  Paper backed ie:low quality  asphalt shingles are particularly prone to these issues.  If the sand is gone, the shingles should be replaced.  If curled, they should be replaced.  Rework any downpipes that drain onto other shingles.  Patch repairs plus drainage improvements can extend a roof by 10 years.  People replace them way to early in most cases.  

Have your realtor ask if the current owners have the paperwork from the last installation.  They may be entitled to warranty work from the installer and/or shingle manufacturer. 

  • Heart 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, smudge said:

What sort of time frame are you looking at to get into this house?

It's scheduled to close in mid February but signs are pointing that it could/will be sooner. We'll get a month+ break before our first mortgage on the new place is due so that will allow plenty of time for us to move out of our current residence and put our place up for sale.  We are expecting it to sale fast so I seriously doubt there will be an issue of double mortgage payments and even so it would be limited to a month at max -- and even then I doubt it would be a problem.  There's only a small equity to be had in it and it's sale does not depend upon us moving into the new place.

  • Heart 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here's the results of my house inspection.  Mostly minor stuff.  Probably not going to get much for the deferred cost items (that's where the money is) but you can bet we'll try.  This report is also missing the air conditioning unit which was advertised in the real estate page and seen on the property that was removed.  We called that out.

 

Quote

Inspection Fee Home Inspection $450.00

 

Report Summary 

Not Operating

  • Garbage disposal .

 

Priority Concerns

  • Visible puddle of water present at bathroom sink cabinet base with leak detected at supply line fitting
  • Solid aluminum branch circuit wiring .
  • Potential Safety Hazards Potential fall hazard present along exterior NW corner of home
  • Improper porch railing baluster spacing
  • Porch wood damage/deterioration
  • Exterior electrical outlet tested on porch cover ceiling was not properly covered or grounded/GFCI protected
  • Improperly exposed electrical romex wires & open junction box
  • Exterior, laundry area, & water heater closet electrical outlets not GFCI protected
  • Inadequate fire separation in garage
  • Oven anti tip cleat Dishwasher air gap
  • Additional smoke detectors recommended to be installed in each living space
  • Water heater improper temperature relief valve extension material
  • Water heater seismic strap adjustments
  • Improperly exposed electrical wires in main electrical panel
  • Improperly exposed electrical circuit breakers
  • Family room electrical outlet with reverse polarity .

 

Deferred Cost Items

  • Roof coverings
  • Water heater
  • Furnace

 

Improvement Items

  • Settlement/displacement at concrete walkway & appears to be sloped towards home Driveway has some settlement/cracks
  • Southside gate is not secured properly
  • Raw wood fencing/decking
  • Chimney mortar/cap deterioration
  • Chimney cap/spark arrestor
  • Gutter downspout(s) discharging to close to home/foundation
  • Excessive debris inside gutters with standing water
  • Some windows screens were present but not installed
  • Typical concrete foundation crack(s)
  • Drip edge flashing not visible/installed
  • Roof covering evaluation/repairs
  • Ventilation fan not present/installed in laundry area & bathroom
  • Toilet was not properly secured
  • Jet tub access panel
  • Door stop(s)
  • Bedroom door adjustments/closet floor guides
  • Firebrick mortar deterioration with damaged/corroded/inoperable damper
  • Surface moisture staining detected on attic roof sheathing/attic ventilation evaluation
  • Minor pest activity in attic
  • Partially obstructed gable vents & areas of displaced cardboard baffles
  • Water heater expansion tank
  • Furnace air filter was very dirty
  • Open condensation drain line

 

Items To Monitor

  • Garage roof patching

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Visible puddle of water present at bathroom sink cabinet base with leak detected at supply line fitting - you should make fixing this one immediately a condition of the contract.  If left ignored, the water can ruin the cabinet, ruin the floor, start mold growth, and even ruin the structure.  I've seen a small leak like this under a dishwasher jeopardize floor joists.  While a small item, it can significantly reduce the value of the house or increase your costs during the time between agreement and closing, which is a time when you have no control over the properly.

 

Remove the garbage disposal.  Put the garbage in the garbage can, not down the pipes where the solids can clog them up.

Inadequate fire separation in garage - make sure he clarifies what this means: too few layers of sheetrock, door not fire rated, holes punched through wall for wiring not filled, etc.  Check that this won't keep you from getting a certificate of occupancy or if it has to be fixed before you can get one.

Improperly exposed electrical wires in main electrical panel - I'm thinking this means breaker knock outs were removed and left open, an easy fix.  If if means wire is missing insulation, then that is an immediate, but probably inexpensive, fix.

Improperly exposed electrical circuit breakers - almost sounds as if the panel has no cover.

Improper porch railing baluster spacing - this could be a problem if small children ever visit.  See if this, too, will affect your cert. of occ.

Minor pest activity in attic - get a pest inspection if your inspector was not a qualified pest inspector

 

I didn't see any mention regarding galvanized pipe.  Like aluminum wiring, many insurance companies won't issue policies or require increased premiums for houses with galvanized piping.  If the house does have it, check with your insurance company that it won't be an issue.

  • Heart 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, dotman17 said:

Another side note is the house is recessed from the street level and consequently the driveway has a slope to it.  The apex of the grade used to keep the water from rolling off the street actually comes in contact with the bottom frame of our car as we enter the driveway from the street.  Because we have one of those stupid newer models that are to aerodynamic for their own good, our clearance sucks.  Consequently, we'd have to get this fixed as well.  This clearly is all our problem but I'm just saying that if we want to use the garage (and who wouldn't?), then we have to fix the driveway issue too.  i suspect it isn't a big deal cost wise but nonetheless it is something we have to deal with.  Either that or use our garage as large bike container and park the car along the street.

It happens in Dublin too, especially at the U.S. embassy.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Thaddeus Kosciuszko said:

 

Visible puddle of water present at bathroom sink cabinet base with leak detected at supply line fitting - you should make fixing this one immediately a condition of the contract.  If left ignored, the water can ruin the cabinet, ruin the floor, start mold growth, and even ruin the structure.  I've seen a small leak like this under a dishwasher jeopardize floor joists.  While a small item, it can significantly reduce the value of the house or increase your costs during the time between agreement and closing, which is a time when you have no control over the properly.

 

Remove the garbage disposal.  Put the garbage in the garbage can, not down the pipes where the solids can clog them up.

Inadequate fire separation in garage - make sure he clarifies what this means: too few layers of sheetrock, door not fire rated, holes punched through wall for wiring not filled, etc.  Check that this won't keep you from getting a certificate of occupancy or if it has to be fixed before you can get one.

Improperly exposed electrical wires in main electrical panel - I'm thinking this means breaker knock outs were removed and left open, an easy fix.  If if means wire is missing insulation, then that is an immediate, but probably inexpensive, fix.

Improperly exposed electrical circuit breakers - almost sounds as if the panel has no cover.

Improper porch railing baluster spacing - this could be a problem if small children ever visit.  See if this, too, will affect your cert. of occ.

Minor pest activity in attic - get a pest inspection if your inspector was not a qualified pest inspector

 

I didn't see any mention regarding galvanized pipe.  Like aluminum wiring, many insurance companies won't issue policies or require increased premiums for houses with galvanized piping.  If the house does have it, check with your insurance company that it won't be an issue.

Some great feedback here TK.  Thank you.  I'd post the whole 'confidential report' online for you all to rummage through but it's got my name and address scattered throughout the document, and honestly, I can't be making that kind of information available to folks like madmax and jsharr.  My life would never be the same.  

  • Heart 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is the deal with the fireplace damper? If stuck closed you can't have a fire. If stuck open you have a najor hole in your house letting in cold air and making your life uncomfortable

 

Few things on there that speak to poor maintence and uncaring attitude. Gutters full? Sink supply leak? Air filter dirty? 

You are going to find more surprises after you move in

  • Heart 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Scrapr said:

What is the deal with the fireplace damper? If stuck closed you can't have a fire. If stuck open you have a najor hole in your house letting in cold air and making your life uncomfortable

 

Few things on there that speak to poor maintence and uncaring attitude. Gutters full? Sink supply leak? Air filter dirty? 

You are going to find more surprises after you move in

I'm sure.  We now enter the negotiations phase of the process.  I think the house is probably a bit overpriced considering there are actually brand new homes down the street for 10,000 less.  But we didn't like the feel nor necessarily the neighborhoods of those places.  Plus they're built on a fairly steep hill.  This is an older house.  We knew that and all these things can be fixed, put off, and some ignored but I would expect a good discount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New and old both have their downfalls.  When I bought a new house we had no shades, toilet paper holders, curtains...  With the old house it just needs a lot of work.  Neither is perfect.  Buy the one that feels like your home.  We really liked our house when we bought it, we had a lot of kids with us at the time and it fit what we needed.  Now it's too big with unused bedrooms.  We'll move in 10 or so years.

  • Heart 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We like this one.  But there is work (and future work) to be done that's not going to come cheap.  I think we're overpaying somewhat now -- and at least a $10,000 discount would seem a requirement -- but I'd jump on it if it were $15K.  By the way, under my current mortgage parameters, a $15K drop is about a $90 decrease in monthly payments.  With that and the recent 1/8 gain I got from locking in on the interest rate, that's another $25 or about an $115  month savings.  That buys groceries and/or gas.

  • Heart 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Scrapr said:

What is the deal with the fireplace damper? If stuck closed you can't have a fire. If stuck open you have a najor hole in your house letting in cold air and making your life uncomfortable

Yeah, we'll probably fix this though I was considering installing a pellet stove so maybe we could just bypass this.... though I suspect we'd need to deal with it anyway.  I don't know enough about their installation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, dotman17 said:

Some great feedback here TK.  Thank you.  I'd post the whole 'confidential report' online for you all to rummage through

You're most kindly welcome, and I'm happy I could be of some help!

Often with inspector's reports the inspector checks off a box in a program, and the program spits out a canned paragraph regarding the checked-off item.  If you read through the report and any paragraphs don't quite seem to relate to your circumstances, call the inspector for an explanation.  Don't be shy (and I can't imagine you would be) because he owes you that.

 

The other thing I'd suggest to avoid surprises is to think of your house as a system.  Most people just focus on just the house when buying.  If I may give some examples:

Community: what the neighbor's properties look like, what internet sites say for crimes committed in the area, the sex offender website showing where they live, what permits you need to take out for the work you need and how much

Services: is garbage collection, water supply, sewer connection, leaf pick up included in your taxes or do you pay, what cable services are available (will you lose your email address you've had for years?), if you have to pay for water and sewer are the rates outrageous, any problems with municipal water quality (i.e. to exaggerate, Flint, MI)

Your network: do you know people or contractors that can make the repairs the house needs (not a deal breaker)

Regulations: deed restrictions, community/neighborhood association rules, even a small thing like whether parking is allowed on the street and when

Development: if there is open land near the property, call the municipality and ask if there are any development plans, then you can decide if it will make your street so busy you can't get out your own driveway, this will also give an indication of whether the local government is helpful or bunch of bureaucratic asses.

 

Sound overwhelming?  I suppose taken all at once it can be, but while you're negotiating you can find out much of this stuff with internet searches, and most of the rest with a few strategic phone calls.  Or, just pick the 3 or 4 ones most important to you and go after those.

I imagine some people will think this is way over the top, and that's certainly a valid opinion because this definitely can amount to a chunk of extra work.  I've been made fun of before for thinking this way, so it's not an issue for me.  I just prefer to walk into a situation with my eyes as wide open as I can pry them.

  • Heart 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Counter offer is in at $15K below our original offer.  I've done the math and there is at least 10K of repair.  I really think the house really is closer to the 10K reduction anyway w/o the changes so I'm hopeful.  The choice was to go in at our ceiling and submit it as final offer or go in $5K lower and hope they counter.  We went back and forth and ultimately decided to go with what the agent was recommending -- go in 15 under.  Soooooooooooo.... if they yank this out from under us and we're back to square one -- I'm blaming my wife.

  • Heart 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Ralph T. Mooseknuckle said:

I thought your offer was accepted a while ago? ie the thread title.

 

2 minutes ago, smudge said:

Ya, but then he got the 32 page inspection report!

^^^ This.

 

It's just the number crunching game at this point.  It's busting my chops though.  It's Friday, the counter offer has been submitted, the Seahawks play tomorrow, and I can't concentrate on work.

  • Heart 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well we put in the offer some 42 hours ago and are supposed to hear if our counter offer was accepted or not by 3 p.m. PST today.  They're dragging their feet and it's fun to speculate what it all means but it does seem whatever it is -- they're either having a hard time accepting/countering our offer or they're not interested.  So my wife and I are going out to some open houses today.  We checked out a really nice place last night that would probably work -- but it's a box and has 3 levels w/ two flights of stairs in a lesser desirable location.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Believe me they want out of this house as much as you want it. Declining your counter means putting the house back on the market. And restaging/cleaning....and more open houses. As soon as they got the accepted offer in their minds it was a done deal. 

They will likely counter your counter. And the 2 parties will meet in the middle

hey...at least you don't have to hang on to watch the Seahawks

  • Heart 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not to be a debbie downer, but my son and his wife were going to buy a house a year or so ago, until they got a bad inspection report.  The owners didn't respond accordingly.  They ended up passing on the house and bought a much nicer home only a few blocks away from the first.  In retrospect, they are happy as hell that the first deal fell though.  They love the house they bought and the repairs needed on the first house would have been lots of aggravation and problems.  Hope all works out the best for you, Dotman, no matter what happens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Road Runner said:

Not to be a debbie downer, but my son and his wife were going to buy a house a year or so ago, until they got a bad inspection report.  The owners didn't respond accordingly.  They ended up passing on the house and bought a much nicer home only a few blocks away from the first.  In retrospect, they are happy as hell that the first deal fell though.  They love the house they bought and the repairs needed on the first house would have been lots of aggravation and problems.  Hope all works out the best for you, Dotman.

Thanks RR!   Yeah, I don't trust these people for some reason.  It's being represented by a private LLC real estate company and my gut says they put money into this house that they're trying to recoup and anything lower than their bottom line is not an option.  I could be wrong.  It's all speculation of course but the place is going to need a new roof in the next 5 years and my counter offer was essentially saying that you give me a price cut to pay for that and I'll ignore the 3 other pricey things that need repairs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, dotman17 said:

Can anyone think why the seller would wait until the last hour to respond?  Seems like they're not interested. We are at an open house as I post.

They are doing it to f with you since they are giving up $$$

I would do the same

 

  • Heart 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
2 hours ago, dotman17 said:

Update:  Our loan was approved last week and the appraisal came in 10K higher than what we paid for it.  It's due to close on the 10th of February but we've been informed it may be sooner than that.  Awesome!  Both my wife and I are pretty excited.

You are going to send on the $5k to the seller right? It's the fair thing to do

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...