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Parsnip Totin Jack

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3 hours ago, Further said:

I'm jones'in for new wheels. We have a contract coming up in July so I'm waiting till that's settled before I get serious about buying.

I didn't know you could still get a contract. Where I worked the contract ran out a year before I retired. They still don't have a contract and the worthless corrupt union says they are not allowed to strike. I wonder how much that cost the company to buy the union?:default_sissy-fight-smiley::angry::DeadHorse:

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Once you're sure it's the car you want, go back home.

Request an online quote from all of the dealers within 50 miles.  If possible, indicate you're comparing them all.  Avoid any of the garbage issues, and then buy from the best 2-3 prices based on which dealer's staff isn't a PITA to deal with, or by checking out their service departments.

If I was buying brand new, this is probably what I'd do.  I got my 2016 Civic with just under 1,200 miles and three months old, so that was kind of a one-off.

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13 hours ago, Honey Badger said:

Once you're sure it's the car you want, go back home.

Request an online quote from all of the dealers within 50 miles.  If possible, indicate you're comparing them all.  Avoid any of the garbage issues, and then buy from the best 2-3 prices based on which dealer's staff isn't a PITA to deal with, or by checking out their service departments.

and ask for the fully loaded out the door price so you don't get surprised with dealer undercoating and doc fees of hundreds or more

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3 minutes ago, Scrapr said:

and ask for the fully loaded out the door price so you don't get surprised with dealer undercoating and doc fees of hundreds or more

I'm NOT going to pay a lot for this muffler  I miss that ad. :D

I recently found oot that my exhaust system on teh del SOl is all hacked up and is sort of a Frankensteen situation. 

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4 hours ago, Scrapr said:

and ask for the fully loaded out the door price so you don't get surprised with dealer undercoating and doc fees of hundreds or more

Also, look up what the laws are regarding doc fees in your state.  Many states have a maximum.  Some of the fees are BS, but legal, but you can at least keep them down.  Having a line-item invoice is really important so you can identify items that you can get removed.

I'm happy to say that the dealer I went to was very clear about their documentation.  They did use the finance guy to try and sell me the 100,000mi warranty option (that way the salesman doesn't look like the bad guy) as a one time offer because the car was close enough to be new to qualify, but my previous judgment has been that if it can't do well in longer than the standard 3 years/36,000 miles, then this probably isn't a car I should be buying at all.

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4 hours ago, RalphWaldoMooseworth said:

I'm NOT going to pay a lot for this muffler  I miss that ad. :D

I recently found oot that my exhaust system on teh del SOl is all hacked up and is sort of a Frankensteen situation. 

You wouldn't have bought it from a ricer, would you? :whistle:

P.S.  Apexi makes lovely Honda exhausts.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/store/index.php/exhaust/complete-systems/ws2.html

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20 minutes ago, Honey Badger said:

You wouldn't have bought it from a ricer, would you? :whistle:

P.S.  Apexi makes lovely Honda exhausts.

http://www.apexi-usa.com/store/index.php/exhaust/complete-systems/ws2.html

Maybe!  She was an odd bird, and it has #1/15 painted under the hood.  Most of the exhaust damage was probably done by the local Meineke shop.

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On 5/26/2017 at 1:04 PM, 2Far said:

Carmax. The price you see is the price you pay.

Watch out for popular cars: sometimes new ones are the same price as two year-old ones at Carmax.

I had already decided what my next car would be when, on New Years Eve, Dec. 31, 2012, my parked and empty 1997 Ford Taurus got gently tapped on the bumper (you could barely detect a tiny dent!) by a hit and run driver, just enough to deploy the airbags which cracked the windshield.  The airbags were worth more than the $900 book value of the car so State Farm said it was totaled.  Nevertheless, State Farm considers dealer markup, state fees, etc. and cut me a check for $2992!

The hit-and-run driver did me a $2000 favor over what I'd have gotten as a trade-in!

So, I had always bought new cars, but in Jan. 2013 I wanted a 2009-11 Honda Fit (2009-13 are all virtually identical) with maybe 30K miles, etc.

The 2013 Honda Fit was Consumer Reports best-bang-for-the-buck car for the 4th consecutive year and they said it was rated above other crossovers that cost a few thousand less because it was so much more fun to drive (it is - it's the best car I've ever owned) and it's cargo area is almost as big as mid-sized SUV's, 57 cubic feet behind the front seats compared to 68 cubic feet on a Ford Edge, 41' of front headroom and lots of legroom with extra-wide doors that a bunch of us tall guys at a car show raved about, and the "magic" rear seats can fold down flat like a station wagon or the horizontal part can be stood up to provide a 1 1/2" wide space from door-to-door and floor-to-ceiling: I can stand up my bicycle after popping the front wheel off behind the front seats and protecting the door upholstery with some rubber pads:

5929d542b6e41_07.BikeinFit-InCar25.jpg.a91e4dc7aba6b9bbd4d45cb01e9f896c.jpg5929d56057748_01.BikeinFit-BikeCar25.jpg.b06c377bf33d554ef7beda1c53e35e8e.jpg

The best price I could get for 2010 and 2011 Fits are Carmax was $16,900 or more.

The total price I paid at a new car dealership for my 2013 Honda Fit was $18,000 (no trade-in), which was $200 better than the "best" deal that Kelley Blue Book and U.S. News said was reported in my dealership's zipcode, maybe because I paid by check - no loan.  I figured the $1100 more was worth the 2-3 years newer car.

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