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Razors Edge

One For Don To Appreciate

Question

The other day, I was doing some random work on my commuter. It is an older ~1995 Trek 7sp MTB.  When I replaced the wheels a few years back, the new & available cheap inexpensive set was 8/9/10 compatible, and to run a 7sp cassette required a spacer.  Anyway, I got the spacer, have ridden if fine for years, but never "perfect" in my hardest gear. While doing the random work, I decided to clean the drivetrain. Part of the cleaning was a removal of the cassette and a thorough cleaning of the cogs. When I reassembled, the lockring was a tad challenge to seat and tighten fully but it seemed to go on eventually.  

Anyway, I remounted the wheel and have been commuting again for a couple weeks now. I noticed a metallic jingle when I would go over bumps, etc., and, after a while of ignoring, I sussed out it was the cassette. There was just a wee bit of play in the cassette now - almost like the lockring has come loose - but due to the tight squeeze back there, it only can wiggle a tiny amount.

Long story short, despite the play, the shifting is now great. I'm in no rush to pull the wheel and properly set up the cassette again.

Tom 

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You know, if you don't keep the cassette tight on the hub, you'll ruin the spline.

I built a wheel using a 9 spd freehub, spacer, and 7 spd cassette. The crank is a Claris (commuter model) and the chain line totally messed up. I'll ride it but I won't like it. :lol:

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I run friction shifters on my main bike. It has a six speed freewheel. I get the NOS or slightly used Shimano Z012 freewheels. They are pre-HG type and hold the chain better. Plus, they last a lot longer than the HG type.

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