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Custom gearing.


donkpow

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So my new 28'er came with a 10 spd drivetrain including an 11-34 cassette and a 50-34 compact crank. I would rather have received a triple crank setup but the price was right so there you go. 

Next, engage brain.

I took the 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-26-30-34 cassette and mixed in a 16-17-18-19-20-21-22-23-25-27 junior development cassette. The results is a 16-17-19-20-21-22-23-26-30-34 custom cassette. Now, with the 50-34 crankset, the crossover points are not useful. You end up skating your RD across most of the cassette for a crossover or making a jump. 

Enter, the cash.

So I went to Wickwerks and scored some chainrings for the crank. Cx/gravel gear set with 42-34T.

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The solution.

Here we have the gearing for my multi-use bicycle. I'm doing everything from pulling a trailer and pannier full of groceries to zipping across town for an appointment. The distances covered are everything from 1 mile to 42+ miles in town, on streets and paved trails, year round. You can see I have a useful set of gears right in the middle of the cassette, reducing wear, with a speed range of roughly 10-16 mph.

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Ultimately, this setup is cheaper than a conversion to a triple crank drivetrain but still offers a set of useful gears. The Wickwerks gears were up around $150 and they are still only made of aluminum. I would much rather have steel gears at a much lower price. I couldn't find a 42T gear that would pick up the chain except from Europe and it's possible shifting would suffer. I did find some 44T and 46T in aluminum in a couple of configurations but shifting would likely have suffered with these gears. $150 is too much money for this situation. Their gears don't have shift pins but they do have a lot of very effective shifting ramps. Old is new again, only better. :)

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WOW! I'm happy you cobbled together something you want, but this tiny of a speed range would make me go crazy. 120 rpm gets you up to 26mph!  Interesting enough, my most used gear is my 17 on back - the 50/17 is my "starting out and rolling gear" with the 50/16 and 50/15 also getting a lot of time.  They are the 5th, 6th, and 7th cogs in my 11-28 11sp cassette. You're " pulling a trailer and pannier full of groceries to zipping across town for an appointment", but I don't think "zipping" is the right word :D

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My 11-28:

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I am relieved that you are able to adapt to what the industry wants to sell you. I hope you paid a lot of money to them. :lol: As you might guess, I am not particularly enamored with a 10 speed drive train. I actually had a good set of gears with a 6 spd freewheel and using a custom triple to give something very close to a half step system. This arrangement uses more gears to accomplish the same thing. I don't need speed. In fact, with the fancy bike computer, I am more interested in my cadence than speed. So I built the drive train for my purposes.

As a point of fact, the cranks on this bike are 175 mm. The other two bikes are 170 mm. The only thing on this bike that says touring is the decal.

You know, you can get a 52T big ring to fit your compact crank. That would allow you to use more of your cassette. I can figure it out for you if it's too hard.

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On 2/24/2019 at 8:04 AM, donkpow said:

You know, you can get a 52T big ring to fit your compact crank. That would allow you to use more of your cassette. I can figure it out for you if it's too hard.

I have had a 50/36 (10sp), a 52/36 (10sp), and am currently happily settled on the 50/34 (11sp) on both the Tarmac and the Roubaix.  The new 11th gear - in my case the 11 tooth - makes the 50 comparable to the 52x12 I ran on the 10sp.  I rarely get above 45mph, but maybe if I did, I would go with a 52 again.  I think a 52/34 would be outside the "maximum" jump between big and small.

My commuter MTB is a triple 7sp, and it has a crap ton of low speed options.  When I pull something like the Burley, those two smaller chainrings make a difference!

Maybe a 1x12 would be a great option for you - simple, straight shifting, and light weight! I'm guessing a 1x13 or 1x14 is coming soon too.

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46 minutes ago, donkpow said:

You da man!

Only a person who cycles under a single dimensional paradigm would accept a 1x drive train. It's unimaginable in my book.

You know, they have special chainrings just for 1x systems. They hold the chain better. :lol: No really, it's true.

What about a single speed or a fixie?  Man, you must be a bike snob! 

Are you really not a fan of 1x? I've never had a 1x (as an adult), but I am growing more and more fond of their justification as more cogs are added and because of several benefits like simplicity and narrower Q-factor.  There may be downsides - certainly chain slap comes to mind, but the newer rear DRs have addressed that as well.  What do you actually think about them? 

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1 hour ago, Razors Edge said:

What about a single speed or a fixie?  Man, you must be a bike snob! 

Are you really not a fan of 1x? I've never had a 1x (as an adult), but I am growing more and more fond of their justification as more cogs are added and because of several benefits like simplicity and narrower Q-factor.  There may be downsides - certainly chain slap comes to mind, but the newer rear DRs have addressed that as well.  What do you actually think about them? 

Fixed gear and single speed bikes have been part of the landscape since before my birth. With 1/8" chain and beefy gears, they have their place for cyclists. I could go for a single speed with freewheel. Not a fixed gear, though.

I actually think that a 1x10 or 11 and the ilk are a marketing ploy. When you do the math on any of these systems, they can't be justified in practical terms. Drive chains are not really made to be operated in a misaligned position and that's what you have with a 1x10 or whatever system. In order to make that work, compromises have to be made in the design and construction of components. The gears are thinner, the teeth are shorter, chain parts are thinner. The way things are built results in a shorter service life and, consequently, higher costs. You know, it's not that big of a deal since we are primarily dealing with recreational activities and toys. That's your disposable income. So long as you don't mind spending more than $200 every couple of years for new chains and gears.

Frankly, I'm thinking you just can't pull the jumps on a 6 spd 14-28T cassette with a 52T crank. :P

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2 hours ago, Razors Edge said:

What about a single speed or a fixie?  Man, you must be a bike snob! 

Are you really not a fan of 1x? I've never had a 1x (as an adult), but I am growing more and more fond of their justification as more cogs are added and because of several benefits like simplicity and narrower Q-factor.  There may be downsides - certainly chain slap comes to mind, but the newer rear DRs have addressed that as well.  What do you actually think about them? 

Chain slap isn’t as much of an issue as many mtn rear derailleurs have a clutch that prevents slap. Without the clutch yeah you could have chain slap but it may be less of an issue on the road.

1X works well enough for me but I do notice the bigger jumps in gears between a 2X set up.

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16 hours ago, donkpow said:

The gears are thinner, the teeth are shorter, chain parts are thinner. The way things are built results in a shorter service life and, consequently, higher costs. You know, it's not that big of a deal since we are primarily dealing with recreational activities and toys. That's your disposable income. So long as you don't mind spending more than $200 every couple of years for new chains and gears.

I haven't seen that increased wear and tear going from 10sp to 11sp. My Tarmac is at about 8,300 miles, and no need for a new chain yet, and absolutely no need for a new cassette. I never needed a new chainring in 20k+ on the Roubaix, so I am hesitant to think a 1x11 or 1x12 will be much tougher on bits than my 2x set-ups.  One thing SRAM specifically addressed with AXS 1x12 is chain strength and you can see it has that flat top. Probably more expensive though when you do have to replace it :)

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14 minutes ago, donkpow said:

Well, what kind of riding are you doing?

I would consider city riding (for people who stop at stop lights ;)) similar to mtn bike riding and would result in accelerated wear when compared to road riding.

I guess I just try to take care of the stuff?  After most rides in the winter and spring, my bike is covered in grime. I wipe it of, and relube the chain if necessary. From Sunday:

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