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Brakes don’t line up :-(


Parr8hed

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6 minutes ago, maddmaxx said:

Need pics of the brake rotor hub as well...........at least I do.  Maybe someone else can comment.

I've forgotten:

Is this an MTB frame, a Cross frame, approximate year.  What's the source of the wheel?  6 bolt rotor or centerlok?  Adapters or spacers?

MTB frame. Nashbar. 29”. 6 bolt rotor. No adapters. 

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6 minutes ago, Parr8hed said:

MTB frame. Nashbar. 29”. 6 bolt rotor. No adapters. 

I'd ask one of the current wheel builders but I believe there may be a conflict on the standard wheel spacing for 29'ers with some at 135mm old school MTB and some at 142mm with or without thru axles.  :dontknow:  I'm tapped out on this one.  Was it difficult to set the wheel in the frame, width wise?  Does it look like there is extra axle on the non drive side?

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That is a tough one... I’m guessing that if the hub fits in the drop out it’s the correct sized hub. So my thought is 1). Is the rotor properly installed centered and straight/not bent. 2). Is the hub properly aligned in the drop outs?  

I have seen drop outs not properly aligned so I had to “eyeball” the hub when installing wheel as if I had it in both drop outs the wheel was off.

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Upon further review I think that there are several different 29er hub widths and frame widths.  The terms "boost" and "super boost" come up in discussions.

Given that your problem would be solved if the frame width allowed for an axle spacer on the rotor side of the axle of about 6mm you may have a wheel/frame mismatch.  If the spacer works and if the tire centers up in the frame the wheel will work.  You would see this if the dropouts had to be squeezed inward to tighten the wheel.  If the dropouts had to be pushed out to mount the wheel you probably can't use this wheel.

Hopefully you can take the wheel off and still measure the width inside the dropouts.  Compare that to the width of the wheel hub over the locknuts.  If for some strange reason they are the same measurement then I'm out of ideas.  If the wheel is wider than the frame I don't know if it can be fixed.  If the wheel is narrower than the frame, a spacer will make it fit but the wheel may have to be redished to center the rim.

This is all a SWAG and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

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1 hour ago, maddmaxx said:

I'd ask one of the current wheel builders but I believe there may be a conflict on the standard wheel spacing for 29'ers with some at 135mm old school MTB and some at 142mm with or without thru axles.  :dontknow:  I'm tapped out on this one.  Was it difficult to set the wheel in the frame, width wise?  Does it look like there is extra axle on the non drive side?

142 is the thru axle equivalent for 135mm quick release for frames with  3.5mm locating slots. There were some early thru axle frames that did not have the slots and were 135 OLD.

Not a factor here though as the photo clearly shows a quick release lever.

As far as why the rotor is rubbing the mount, I got nuthin. :dontknow:

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8 minutes ago, Rattlecan said:

142 is the thru axle equivalent for 135mm quick release for frames with  3.5mm locating slots. There were some early thru axle frames that did not have the slots and were 135 OLD.

Not a factor here though as the photo clearly shows a quick release lever.

As far as why the rotor is rubbing the mount, I got nuthin. :dontknow:

There is a 141mm x 9mm quick release hub. It's kind of a poor man's thru axle.

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1 hour ago, maddmaxx said:

Upon further review I think that there are several different 29er hub widths and frame widths.  The terms "boost" and "super boost" come up in discussions.

Given that your problem would be solved if the frame width allowed for an axle spacer on the rotor side of the axle of about 6mm you may have a wheel/frame mismatch.  If the spacer works and if the tire centers up in the frame the wheel will work.  You would see this if the dropouts had to be squeezed inward to tighten the wheel.  If the dropouts had to be pushed out to mount the wheel you probably can't use this wheel.

Hopefully you can take the wheel off and still measure the width inside the dropouts.  Compare that to the width of the wheel hub over the locknuts.  If for some strange reason they are the same measurement then I'm out of ideas.  If the wheel is wider than the frame I don't know if it can be fixed.  If the wheel is narrower than the frame, a spacer will make it fit but the wheel may have to be redished to center the rim.

This is all a SWAG and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

All true but not likely the case as the QR standard didn’t really change.  Boost, Superboost & etc are on newer TA systems.

I’d say time for a expert, @velobro to the bat phone.... Or a big ass pedal wrench.

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10 minutes ago, ChrisL said:

All true but not likely the case as the QR standard didn’t really change.  Boost, Superboost & etc are on newer TA systems.

I’d say time for a expert, @velobro to the bat phone.... Or a big ass pedal wrench.

Ya.  I'm lost in the new system. 

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COMPREHENSIVE LIST OF HUB STANDARDS

FAT BIKE REAR    FAT BIKE FRONT
135x5 QR                    135x5 QR
170x5 QR                    150x15 TA
177x12 TA                   Lefty Max
190x12 TA    
190x5 QR    
197x12 TA    
 

MOUNTAIN REAR    MOUNTAIN FRONT
135x5 QR                    100 QR
141x5 QR (Boost)        100x12 TA
142x12 TA                   100x15 TA
148x12 TA                   100 Lefty
150x12 TA                   110x15 TA
157x12 TA                   110x20 TA
                                   110 Predictive
 

ROAD REAR                      ROAD FRONT
120 BO, SS/Fixie/Track     9x1 BO
126 QR, Old                     100 QR
130 QR, Road                  100x12 TA
130 BO, SS/Fixie/Track    
135 QR, Road    
135x12 TA, Road    
 

CROSS/GRAVEL REAR    CROSS/GRAVEL FRONT
135 QR                                    100 QR
142x12 TA                              100x15 TA

 

https://pubwheels.com/blogs/news/know-your-hub-standards

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I believe the Nashbar 29er frame is a 135mm spacing for the rear dropouts.  I haven't sussed it out yet but Mavic makes a series of adapters that insert into the ends of the hubs to adapt them to different axle styles (thru vs QR) and spacings.  It might be that this wheel can be fit with an optional set of spacers????

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I have no idea what the problem is but here is how I would go about it. 

-Measure the bike dropout spacing.

-Measure the distance from the dropout face to the caliper slot center (determining rotor position relative to locknut face).

Go from there to check out hubs and adapters.

 

I think if you are going to want an answer for this kind of question, you are going to need to look really close at specifications and build specs of the original bike. That should give you a hint.

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1 hour ago, Prophet Zacharia said:

I think it has something to do with the red fibers coming out of @Parr8hed‘s wheel, going through the spokes and around the caliper mount. The other guy has the same thing, that can’t be right.

I was wondering about that the first time I saw the pics.  Seemed odd that both bikes would have those same red strands.  I also though it strange that no one else was mentioning them.  I didn't want to be the first so I pretended like they weren't even there.  I suppose both Parr8 and the Facebook guy could just cut them off. 

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