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So what are the chances


Ralphie

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that the van's constant P420 code has gone away spontaneously?  I have been plagued by this every inspection time for the last decade or so!   And now aboot a month ago the check engine light just went oot, and no, smartasses, it is not burned oot, because it still lights when the key is on.  Sadly I can't locate my code reader to verify it before going to the inspection station.  Thinking of going to autozone, but it is far and I am 'specting that they will balk at reading it when no light is on.

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1 minute ago, Prophet Zacharia said:

I am reading this in Jeff Spicoli’s voice and thinking you need a good set of TV repair tools.

Pffft. Pedal wrench ? fixes most things.  This needs fine tuned.  Just what the pedal wrench was designed for.

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Just now, Airehead said:

P420 catalytic converter efficiency. Says the guy who didn’t even have to look it up. He wants to know how long the light has been out. Do not disconnect the battery. It then will not pass inspection. 

It's been out for maybe a month or two.  P0420 is infamous!  The other two are P0133 and P0740.  In NJ they read the OBD II so it won't pass even with the light oot I believe.

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58 minutes ago, 12string said:

All cats are inefficient.  That's why I prefer dogs.  Dogs also have better Oxygen sensors

Is that why cats have to sit on your chest and stare in your face to check if you are breathing as you sleep, while dogs can confirm while sleeping comfortably? I always thought the dog just didn’t care!

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That's weird, though I had a similar problem that went away - for two weeks.

My 1997 Ford Taurus had something many Taurus's had: a constantly on "Service Engine Soon" light.

Someone even wrote a Haiku (5-7-5 syllable poem) about it:

Service Engine Soon.

The red light that burns from hell.

Damn you Ford Taurus.

In my case it was because a metal piece of some sensor broke and became trapped underneath it and it took two trips to repair shops before it was found.

The first garage had no clue what was going on and kept trying different things until the light finally went off - for unclear reasons.  Maybe something they did temporarily shifted that trapped thin piece of metal.

It came back on permanently in a couple weeks.  The second garage was recommended by a Korean-American chemistry student of mine whose grandfather ran the place. He was competent and found the problem right away.

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Man, I need one of those Korean grandfather things!

My oddity: Alternator died, no warning, no codes, just died, so I replaced it.  Now I have a good 14.4 volts from Battery+ to the Chassis.  About 12.5 when off.  Yay.  Except Now I get constant beeping about the voltage, sometimes with the battery light.  Still no codes.  But the ECU thinks I only have 12.5V running, 10.8 off (Using Torque App through the OBDII)  I checked the voltage pin, 12.4V from the ECU connector to the chassis.

So alternator function and wiring seems all fine, I can not figure out why the ECU is losing 2 volts!

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