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Should Vintage Bike Dialogue Be Moved to P&R?


ChrisL

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Just now, Dottie said:

Initially I had this boring thread to be pegged for a couple posts. When I am, wrong I am wrong!

Yeah I figured it would stir the pot.  Retro grouches and tech weenies like to convince each other their way is right, any other is wrong...

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1 minute ago, ChrisL said:

Yeah I figured it would stir the pot.  Retro grouches and tech weenies like to convince each other their way is right, any other is wrong... 

We have like a dozen or so folks here who ride bikes, and that WAY MORE than enough to get folks arguing about the right way and wrong way!

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1 minute ago, Page Turner said:

...chain lube !!!?  Slooooowly I turned. Inch by inch, step by step... 

I'm always up for some new thoughts on chain lube!  I use Rock and Roll Gold, but used to use a wax based one.  Folks swore by Garth's fifty step paraffin process, but there is no way I am going that route - and it brings up the whole replacement pin vs master link vs quick link craziness.  

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10 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

I'm always up for some new thoughts on chain lube!  I use Rock and Roll Gold, but used to use a wax based one.  Folks swore by Garth's fifty step paraffin process, but there is no way I am going that route - and it brings up the whole replacement pin vs master link vs quick link craziness.  

...I have spent some quality time recently over on the bicycle forum that must not be named here in a couple of the chain lube threads. :)  Lately, I have been spreading the gospel of replacement. "High quality KMC chains for 8 cogs and below are cheap on Amazon.  Cast off your chains, brothers, and be free of cleansing them !!"

As usual, I am treated like the prophet in his own house. :( 

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2 minutes ago, Page Turner said:

...I have spent some quality time recently over on the bicycle forum that must not be named here in a couple of the chain lube threads. :)  Lately, I have been spreading the gospel of replacement. "High quality KMC chains for 8 cogs and below are cheap on Amazon.  Cast off your chains, brothers, and be free of cleansing them !!"

As usual, I am treated like the prophet in his own house. :( 

When would this advice make sense?  I lube my chain and replace it when it is worn (according to my chain checker tool), but I have to lube every 100 miles or so, so even cheap 8sp chains would be expensive vs my $10 bottle of lube.  I never clean. Just wipe it down.

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16 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

When would this advice make sense?  I lube my chain and replace it when it is worn (according to my chain checker tool), but I have to lube every 100 miles or so, so even cheap 8sp chains would be expensive vs my $10 bottle of lube.  I never clean. Just wipe it down.

Don't clean it the first time.  The factory lube is designed by experts not by myth.

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1 hour ago, Page Turner said:

....I still remember the days before TV remotes, when my old man would make me get up to change the channel.  But we were 'appy in those days. Try telling it to these kids now ! :angry:

I didn't have to experience this much as a kid.  For most of my childhood we only got one station - an NBC station.  I did spend a lot of time holding the aluminum foil just right so we could see the picture.  I'm pretty sure that why I have rotator cuff issues today. :) 

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4 hours ago, Razors Edge said:

When would this advice make sense?  I lube my chain and replace it when it is worn (according to my chain checker tool), but I have to lube every 100 miles or so, so even cheap 8sp chains would be expensive vs my $10 bottle of lube.  I never clean. Just wipe it down.

...if you need to lube your chain every 100 miles, you're using a chain lubricant that would not satisfy me.  If I do lubricate a chain here (and I do so on rare occasions), I use a high grade, high viscosity product with some pressure additives (like the stuff in ATF).  I stil have a couple of bottles of Chaiin-L around here somewhere.  It's a little more complicated to use it, because you need to heat it up to get good penetration into the pins and rollers.

But it's not too bad if you just remove the chain (using that handy quick link).  One lubrication with that stuff keeps the chain quiet for 6-800 miles at least.

Like all lubricants used on chains, you need to pay attention to wiping down the chain exterior with a rag and mineral spirits after application.

 

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2 hours ago, maddmaxx said:

Well he did.  After leaving the coup however there are probably new mechanics that he hasn't met yet.

...I go back about once a month to checkout the parts for sale stash.  There's still a tonne of stuff that goes through there in donations (thanks to the efforts of previous years in establishing some credibility with donors.)  It's kinda sad, but life goes on.  The little guy who wants me killed is kinda on standby now, after he fucked up in the "Great Spoke Threading Brouhaha Incident".   He used to follow me around if he was there. Now he just hides over in the corner and watches me closely. :) 

I still know most of the mechanicals who survived the purge.  They're having trouble with staffing any more, but that was to be expected. They still get the same donations, and my responsibilities are now confined to self interested sorting and retrieval of what I can use.  Close ratio freewheels have suddenly become a pricey item on e-bay. I can usually find a few there with the cog parts to repair the ones I have here cheaply.  Who knew that 14-24  and 14-26 freewheels would become a rare and desirable item ?:huh:Also chainrings.  For some reason vintage chainrings that are not worn out are pricey items in some of the more exotic bolt circle diameters.  I have quite  the collection in a 5 gallon bucket , most of which cost about a dollar or two each.

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4 hours ago, Page Turner said:

...if you need to lube your chain every 100 miles, you're using a chain lubricant that would not satisfy me.  If I do lubricate a chain here (and I do so on rare occasions), I use a high grade, high viscosity product with some pressure additives (like the stuff in ATF).  I stil have a couple of bottles of Chaiin-L around here somewhere.  It's a little more complicated to use it, because you need to heat it up to get good penetration into the pins and rollers. 

But it's not too bad if you just remove the chain (using that handy quick link).  One lubrication with that stuff keeps the chain quiet for 6-800 miles at least.

Like all lubricants used on chains, you need to pay attention to wiping down the chain exterior with a rag and mineral spirits after application.

 

Seems like WAY more effort than I'm doing. Open lube, hold against chain, rotate 3 1/2 times, rotate about 10 times, wipe.  Maybe 1 minute? So, 40 minutes a year? Not bad, and that's if I actually do it every 100 miles and not closer to 150.

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20 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

Seems like WAY more effort than I'm doing. Open lube, hold against chain, rotate 3 1/2 times, rotate about 10 times, wipe.  Maybe 1 minute? So, 40 minutes a year? Not bad, and that's if I actually do it every 100 miles and not closer to 150.

...I'm merely questioning whether it's really extending your chain life.  I know what you're doing is easy, that's why all the other Rock'n'Roll users are doing it, too.  Down inside your chain, where it needs to work, I'm questioning whether something like that does much real good under real world conditions.

 

I :loveshower:a good chain lube thread. :) Have we ever had one here before ?:default_sissy-fight-smiley:

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1 minute ago, Page Turner said:

...I'm merely questioning whether it's really extending your chain life.  I know what you're doing is easy, that's why all the other Rock'n'Roll users are doing it, too.  Down inside your chain, where it needs to work, I'm questioning whether something like that does much real good under real world conditions. 

 

I :loveshower:a good chain lube thread. :) Have we ever had one here before ?:default_sissy-fight-smiley:

Chains are CHEAP, time isn't.  I got over 7,500 miles on the last one. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? Should I get more?

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5 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

Chains are CHEAP, time isn't.  I got over 7,500 miles on the last one. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? Should I get more?

...7,500 miles is pretty good for a chain.  I never go that long without changing one.  But I'm the one saying chains are cheap, I thought you were the one saying you need to make them last.

 

Wait...I get it now.  You think I'm so old that I will get confused like in the cartoon where Bugs and Daffy are trying to convince Elmer Fudd whether it's rabbit season or duck season.  Vewy cweveh, you wascally wabbit.

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So when are they going to make o-ring chains for bicycles ? 

Scrape the rust off once in a while and ride it probably forever on a bicycle.

16 minutes ago, Page Turner said:

Down inside your chain, where it needs to work, I'm questioning whether something like that does much real good under real world conditions.

 

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54 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

Seems like WAY more effort than I'm doing. Open lube, hold against chain, rotate 3 1/2 times, rotate about 10 times, wipe.  Maybe 1 minute? So, 40 minutes a year? Not bad, and that's if I actually do it every 100 miles and not closer to 150.

Are you washing grit out of the chain or into the chain with the lube application that way?

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1 hour ago, maddmaxx said:

And I'm not kidding, what's wrong with the chain lube the factory puts on your new chain?  You're not removing that are you?

I don’t remove it but what are you suggesting for relube over time?    Your not suggesting factory lube is one & done are you?

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Now I do know that everyone....and especially 3alarmer, are waiting for me to make the definitive call regarding chain maintenance in this thread but I refuse to do so. 

I mean you are all wrong..... but I'm determined not to comment any further than that. :nodhead:

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4 hours ago, ChrisL said:

I don’t remove it but what are you suggesting for relube over time?    Your not suggesting factory lube is one & done are you?

For the first several hundred miles, yes.  Now I'm not riding in rain and mud such as cross racing.  Those conditions would change that standard recommendation.

SRAM chains that I use come from the factory pre lubed with a product identified as Gleitmo.  It is one of the best chain lubes made and early oiling simply dilutes it and removes it's protection too soon.  It is installed into the chain in a hot bath system that is difficult to accomplish at home.  That installation if far more penetrating and complete than oiling.

 

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11 hours ago, Page Turner said:

...I'm merely questioning whether it's really extending your chain life.  I know what you're doing is easy, that's why all the other Rock'n'Roll users are doing it, too.  Down inside your chain, where it needs to work, I'm questioning whether something like that does much real good under real world conditions.

 

I :loveshower:a good chain lube thread. :) Have we ever had one here before ?:default_sissy-fight-smiley:

I'm in. While we're at it, how about one on greasing square tapers?

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4 hours ago, maddmaxx said:

For the first several hundred miles, yes.  Now I'm not riding in rain and mud such as cross racing.  Those conditions would change that standard recommendation.

SRAM chains that I use come from the factory pre lubed with a product identified as Gleitmo.  It is one of the best chain lubes made and early oiling simply dilutes it and removes it's protection too soon.  It is installed into the chain in a hot bath system that is difficult to accomplish at home.  That installation if far more penetrating and complete than oiling.

I'm with Chris on this too.  I just installed that new chain (late May/early June), and it was a "install chain, go riding" thing.  No lube until it started to make noise enough I noticed it.  Then, it is the lube and "wipe" for the next 7,000 to 8,000 miles.

I don't clean a chain in the same way I used to with my MTB chains - ie a chain cleaning tool, brushes, mild detergent.  Again, now it is get the lube on the chain, give some spins to work it into the pins/mechanism, and then wipe of the external grit and excess lube. 

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11 hours ago, Page Turner said:

...7,500 miles is pretty good for a chain.  I never go that long without changing one.  But I'm the one saying chains are cheap, I thought you were the one saying you need to make them last.

 

Wait...I get it now.  You think I'm so old that I will get confused like in the cartoon where Bugs and Daffy are trying to convince Elmer Fudd whether it's rabbit season or duck season.  Vewy cweveh, you wascally wabbit.

And I under-reported. It was 8,600 miles.  Oops.

And I think $10-$15 a year is "reasonable".

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3 minutes ago, Razors Edge said:

I'm with Chris on this too.  I just installed that new chain (late May/early June), and it was a "install chain, go riding" thing.  No lube until it started to make noise enough I noticed it.  Then, it is the lube and "wipe" for the next 7,000 to 8,000 miles.

I don't clean a chain in the same way I used to with my MTB chains - ie a chain cleaning tool, brushes, mild detergent.  Again, now it is get the lube on the chain, give some spins to work it into the pins/mechanism, and then wipe of the external grit and excess lube. 

You should probably be consistent about putting the lube on the same side of the chain to assist in flowing dirt out, not in.  Usually one lubes the chain ring side of the chain (inner) on one side like the inner part of the links so that oil flows in one direction and not from both sides.  

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11 minutes ago, maddmaxx said:

You should probably be consistent about putting the lube on the same side of the chain to assist in flowing dirt out, not in.  Usually one lubes the chain ring side of the chain (inner) on one side like the inner part of the links so that oil flows in one direction and not from both sides.   

Huh? I am consistent. And my results are great. I think maybe folks should consider dropping by and watching how I do it. 

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An chain lube thread.  Where is Garth?

I use ProLink from ProGold every 200 miles.  Apply - wipe - reapply - remove excess and ride.  I get several thousand miles out of a chain and I don't lose sleep over the process or the results.

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Just now, Page Turner said:

...how much do you pay for your foo foo, pansy ass, 12 speed chains ? (nttawwt)

Waiting to cross that bridge until I get there!  But, maybe my next road bike will be of the disc & eTAP variety?????  I don't like the white on the Tarmac, though, so may have to wait until they refresh the color schemes.

image.thumb.png.999dbba58a380e628ac9c4a882899600.png

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1 hour ago, Rattlecan said:

I'm in. While we're at it, how about one on greasing square tapers?

...this is an interesting topic.  For years I didn't grease them.  Then, one day, I started greasing them (lightly)  on assembly. Like most of the most passionate topics for bicycle mechanical practice threads, it appears to make no difference.   Next up : Cup and cone versus cartridge, which is really better ?

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1 minute ago, Page Turner said:

...this is an interesting topic.  For years I didn't grease them.  Then, one day, I started greasing them (lightly)  on assembly. Like most of the most passionate topics for bicycle mechanical practice threads, it appears to make no difference.   Next up : Cup and cone versus cartridge, which is really better ?

Ha. Following that one now elsewhere on the interwebz.

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2 hours ago, Page Turner said:

...this is an interesting topic.  For years I didn't grease them.  Then, one day, I started greasing them (lightly)  on assembly. Like most of the most passionate topics for bicycle mechanical practice threads, it appears to make no difference.   Next up : Cup and cone versus cartridge, which is really better ?

Oh.........my..........God.

Clearly you are beyond all redemption....and here's me thinking we were as one on these matters. What is wrong with you? :o  What has happened to that person I knew....the one that loved vintage steel bikes and all the time proven traditional practices. This is so sad. If you had lived somewhere other than that God forsaken place with all its wacky baccy and bouncy chested women with big hair I just know that you would have been fine. What next I ask myself.

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28 minutes ago, onbike1939 said:

Oh.........my..........God.

Clearly you are beyond all redemption....and here's me thinking we were as one on these matters. What is wrong with you? :o  What has happened to that person I knew....the one that loved vintage steel bikes and all the time proven traditional practices. This is so sad. If you had lived somewhere other than that God forsaken place with all its wacky baccy and bouncy chested women with big hair I just know that you would have been fine. What next I ask myself.

To use or not to use the tube stem nut.

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On 7/18/2019 at 11:36 AM, ChrisL said:

I also liked how you could pick up the phone when someone else was on the line and participate or just listen to the conversation.  It never got old having my older sisters yelling, "GET OFF THE LINE!!!!".  Too fun.

So you have always been annoying. :D

 

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23 hours ago, Rattlecan said:

I'm in. While we're at it, how about one on greasing square tapers?

 

21 hours ago, Page Turner said:

...this is an interesting topic.  For years I didn't grease them.  Then, one day, I started greasing them (lightly)  on assembly. Like most of the most passionate topics for bicycle mechanical practice threads, it appears to make no difference.   Next up : Cup and cone versus cartridge, which is really better ?

 

21 hours ago, Rattlecan said:

Ha. Following that one now elsewhere on the interwebz.

Pfft, amateurs. One word, "retaining compound".  Prevents corrosion and fretting.

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