2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #1 Posted December 4, 2018 As part of the reno, we took the bar top off the half wall between the kitchen & living space. Wo2 didn't want bar top intruding into the living room any more. While it's off, she decided that she wants the new (butcher block) top to be one 2x4 higher all the way around. No probs. How do I fill in the gap between where the old dry wall stops & the top of the new 2x4, a gap of about 1&3/4"? On the kitchen side, the seam will be covered up by ship lap. On the living room side, it'll be covered up by a molding. I'm thinking cut long strips of wall board & glue them to the new 2x4. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #2 Posted December 4, 2018 Fill with sheetrock would be my answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #3 Posted December 4, 2018 A pic of the area would help 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted December 4, 2018 Share #4 Posted December 4, 2018 I'm not sure I am understanding everything. Will the finished drywall end be exposed? Is there an outside corner involved? Maybe you could trim the opening like a picture frame. That would be a nice finish. Just build out the gap with drywall and apply the trim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tizeye Posted December 4, 2018 Share #5 Posted December 4, 2018 1 minute ago, jsharr said: A pic of the area would help This. Very hard to visualize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Road Runner Posted December 4, 2018 Share #6 Posted December 4, 2018 10 minutes ago, 2Far said: I'm thinking cut long strips of wall board & glue them to the new 2x4. Something like this. Add spackling as required, of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #7 Posted December 4, 2018 2 minutes ago, Road Runner said: Something like this. Add spackling as required, of course. I would use a reinforced mud mix and possibly some L bead or tear away bead, but need to see the area really. Seems like a clean edge is needed. Unless what is being asked is what to fill the gap with prior to covering with ship lap or molding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #8 Posted December 4, 2018 Yeah, about pics... I'll have to see if I have any in the phone archives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #9 Posted December 4, 2018 Old bar on bottom pic. Top pic without the bar and prior to adding the additional 2x4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parr8hed Posted December 4, 2018 Share #10 Posted December 4, 2018 Drywall or a big piece of crown molding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #11 Posted December 4, 2018 So if I understand this, you are going to cap this with a 2x4 laying on its side to increase the height? Coud you use a 2x6 ripped to the correct width of the current wall studs and sheet rock? Then you would have no need for filler. This would be fine if you are covering with a hard material like molding or ship lap, however is you plan to use mud and texture it, I would use sheet rock filler strips. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #12 Posted December 4, 2018 Hmm, the ripped 2x6 is a good idea though I've already capped it and I no longer have a table saw (don't ask). Yeah, I think I'll just glue on some dry wall, fill the craters and cover with a molding. It had door casing around it before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #13 Posted December 4, 2018 This project is reaching the point that is beyond my ken. We tried getting a quote from a couple of reliable contractors, but they are so busy no one want this little job. Wo2 watches all those decorating, flipping, rehab shows and thinks we (I) can do it. She want to just cap the long straight away (maybe 6" total for a little overhang), but have bar top width (~16") on the 45 and short section toward the dining room. That's one 45 miter and one "who knows?" miter. I can get butcher block grade counter from Lowes/HD but I'm thinking I'll need a table saw fersure, prolly a biscuit joiner and figure out some way to secure the cap portion to the new 2x4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #14 Posted December 4, 2018 12 minutes ago, 2Far said: Hmm, the ripped 2x6 is a good idea though I've already capped it and I no longer have a table saw (don't ask). Yeah, I think I'll just glue on some dry wall, fill the craters and cover with a molding. It had door casing around it before. I am not as dumb as I pretend to be. Cap it with a steel plate lag bolted down good and secure. Plate is pre drilled around edges so you can bolt butcher block on. Drill relief holes in back of butcher block to let it sit flush over the lag bolt heads securing steel plate to the cap. Get a bigger butcher block than you need and cut the final shape once you have it bolted down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Scrapr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Popular Post Share #15 Posted December 4, 2018 Tell Wo2 that counter top is a bearing wall! Can't do it. Wouldn't be prudent. Need a permit! Change order! New Mortgage! Cheaper to sell the house! *I have tried all of these 2 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #16 Posted December 4, 2018 9 minutes ago, Scrapr said: Cheaper to sell the house! Yeah, she'll have the sign up before I can draw my next breath. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12string Posted December 4, 2018 Share #17 Posted December 4, 2018 why screw around with glue? Just screw the sheet rock on the 2x4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris... Posted December 4, 2018 Share #18 Posted December 4, 2018 Backsplash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted December 4, 2018 Share #19 Posted December 4, 2018 Wouldn't it be easier to get a new Wo2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #20 Posted December 4, 2018 2 minutes ago, donkpow said: Wouldn't it be easier to get a new Wo2? OH HELL NO! She would want to redo the entire redo in order to remove traces of W1 of 2Far. Might have to redo the whole house. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted December 4, 2018 Share #21 Posted December 4, 2018 1 minute ago, jsharr said: OH HELL NO! She would want to redo the entire redo in order to remove traces of W1 of 2Far. Might have to redo the whole house. So you're a marriage counselor, too? Congratulations. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #22 Posted December 4, 2018 37 minutes ago, 12string said: why screw around with glue? Just screw the sheet rock on the 2x4. Yeah, it'll only be about 1&3/4" wide, I think the screw will break it pretty quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #23 Posted December 4, 2018 29 minutes ago, Chris... said: Backsplash Yeah, fersur back splash (ship lap) will be on the kitchen side. I was just seeing if I was overthinking this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #24 Posted December 4, 2018 Just now, 2Far said: Yeah, fersur back splash (ship lap) will be on the kitchen side. I was just seeing if I was overthinking this. My biggest concern would be attachment of the counter to that top plate and bracing. People tend to lean on, against those things, or even sit on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12string Posted December 4, 2018 Share #25 Posted December 4, 2018 15 minutes ago, 2Far said: Yeah, it'll only be about 1&3/4" wide, I think the screw will break it pretty quickly. you'll have it covered or spackled anyway. Construction glue will make it not want to lay flat, and the piece on the end will leave the paper on the wall and the rest of the drywall will peel off. And jsharr's concern is real - you will need to add some bracing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #26 Posted December 4, 2018 1 hour ago, jsharr said: I am not as dumb as I pretend to be. Cap it with a steel plate lag bolted down good and secure. Plate is pre drilled around edges so you can bolt butcher block on. Drill relief holes in back of butcher block to let it sit flush over the lag bolt heads securing steel plate to the cap. Get a bigger butcher block than you need and cut the final shape once you have it bolted down. Yeah, I can see most of that but I'm going to need a sketch on the "Plate is pre drilled around edges so you can bolt butcher block on." portion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #27 Posted December 4, 2018 21 minutes ago, jsharr said: My biggest concern would be attachment of the counter to that top plate and bracing. People tend to lean on, against those things, or even sit on them. The original bar had wood angle brackets spaced around the living room side. I'd prolly do the same on the 45 & dining side. Yeah, even then, It probably wouldn't survive me sitting on it. Been11+ years, nobody's been on it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #28 Posted December 4, 2018 1 minute ago, 2Far said: Yeah, I can see most of that but I'm going to need a sketch on the "Plate is pre drilled around edges so you can bolt butcher block on." portion. Not to scale, but something like this. Plate would be made to size of counter top. Would still need some additional bracing. Would not want to rely simple on lag bolts through plate into the top of the wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #29 Posted December 4, 2018 11 minutes ago, 12string said: you'll have it covered or spackled anyway. Construction glue will make it not want to lay flat, and the piece on the end will leave the paper on the wall and the rest of the drywall will peel off. And jsharr's concern is real - you will need to add some bracing. I was thinking I'd one of those tile adhesive trowels with the grooves to schmear the glue out, put the drywall on, then use a 2x4 & clamps to squeeze it tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #30 Posted December 4, 2018 Before you put the ship lap on the wall you could install some nice hidden braces if you know where the studs are in the wall.https://www.federalbrace.com/hidden-countertop-supports-120 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #31 Posted December 4, 2018 2 minutes ago, jsharr said: Not to scale, but something like this. Plate would be made to size of counter top. Would still need some additional bracing. Would not want to rely simple on lag bolts through plate into the top of the wall. That's only good it the counter top extends over the outside of the wall enough to ensure the bolts don't split the countertop. The long straight will look something like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12string Posted December 4, 2018 Share #32 Posted December 4, 2018 5 minutes ago, 2Far said: I was thinking I'd one of those tile adhesive trowels with the grooves to schmear the glue out, put the drywall on, then use a 2x4 & clamps to squeeze it tight. The problem with gluing drywall is that drywall is layers, and you actually only glue the paper, leaving the rest to peel off. You have to spackle anyway, Go easy with the screws, you only need 2, you can make it work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #33 Posted December 4, 2018 5 minutes ago, jsharr said: Before you put the ship lap on the wall you could install some nice hidden braces if you know where the studs are in the wall.https://www.federalbrace.com/hidden-countertop-supports-120 That has some possibilities. The ship lap is only on the kitchen side, it'll be drywall on the living side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #34 Posted December 4, 2018 1 minute ago, 12string said: The problem with gluing drywall is that drywall is layers, and you actually only glue the paper, leaving the rest to peel off. You have to spackle anyway, Go easy with the screws, you only need 2, you can make it work. 10-4. I see your point. I think I may pre-drill the holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #35 Posted December 4, 2018 1 minute ago, 2Far said: That's only good it the counter top extends over the outside of the wall enough to ensure the bolts don't split the countertop. The long straight will look something like this: That is not a counter top. That is simply a wall cap. Just counter sink screw holes and then cap them with wood plugs. If you are going with natural wood finish, then get a wood plug cutter and cut your own plugs from the same wood you use for the cap. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #36 Posted December 4, 2018 11 minutes ago, jsharr said: That is not a counter top. That is simply a wall cap. Just counter sink screw holes and then cap them with wood plugs. If you are going with natural wood finish, then get a wood plug cutter and cut your own plugs from the same wood you use for the cap. Was trying to avoid that. Each hole/plug combo is just another opportunity for blemish (not looking like it does on the TV shows). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #37 Posted December 4, 2018 Just now, 2Far said: Was trying to avoid that. Each hole/plug combo is just another opportunity for blemish (not looking like it does on the TV shows). nah, plug em, cut em flush with a back saw and then sand the whole thing with a finish sander. The look of the wood plugs will make it seem more finished. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted December 4, 2018 Share #38 Posted December 4, 2018 21 minutes ago, 2Far said: That's only good it the counter top extends over the outside of the wall enough to ensure the bolts don't split the countertop. The long straight will look something like this: That looks like an 8" board. Construction adhesive and finish nails. Big deal. Otherwise (if the 2x4 wasn't in place), back it up with a cleat and fasten the cleat to the wall securely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #39 Posted December 4, 2018 You could also have some fun and hide the braces by making them a focal point 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #40 Posted December 4, 2018 39 minutes ago, jsharr said: Before you put the ship lap on the wall you could install some nice hidden braces if you know where the studs are in the wall.https://www.federalbrace.com/hidden-countertop-supports-120 Holy Crap! That's Texas money, not Atlanta safety-guy money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Share #41 Posted December 4, 2018 All I can think is to get the strength without gusseting costs some money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Far ★ Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share #42 Posted December 4, 2018 5 minutes ago, jsharr said: All I can think is to get the strength without gusseting costs some money. Yeah. I'm thinking I'd put the vertical on the ship lap side, router a channel in the 2x4 and run the horizontal thru the channel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted December 4, 2018 Share #43 Posted December 4, 2018 That's 2" x 12" high tensile steel. You could probably get somebody to make you a bracket for less. Let's say 4" x 6" x 6" hot rolled steel. Drill, prime, and paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris... Posted December 4, 2018 Share #44 Posted December 4, 2018 2 hours ago, jsharr said: My biggest concern would be attachment of the counter to that top plate and bracing. People tend to lean on, against those things, or even sit on them. We have wooden brackets bracing ours 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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