Popular Post Wilbur ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Popular Post Share #1 Posted February 18, 2018 It all started just over 20 years ago. We departed New York at 9pm and enjoyed the summer sunset until it began to rise again. Such is a summer Atlantic crossing. You never quite get darkness, especially when the great circle route takes you up to 74 degrees North. After an eye burning sunrise, even though we had covered most windows with paper charts, books and clipboards, we started decent into Yerevan. The sky above was clear and we enjoyed the 11:00 am local sunlight splashing off the slopes of Mt Ararat. It was beautiful. After the storm troopers had boarded, checked and stamped our passports and Visa's left, we buttoned up the airplane for our 5 day internment in the recently Soviet state. The town still had an oppressive feel to it and there were still many hammer and sickle monuments about. The brand new Mercedes bus winked us through the streets of Yerevan. It was hired to take us to the hotel and supply ground transport for our 5 day stay. We pulled up in front of a brand new building and were whisked into the lobby... of a Mercedes dealership. Our baggage had already been removed from sight and I asked the driver if we were near the hotel. Yes, yes, of course. A response I must have heard 100 times already. Some very well dressed and beautiful women approached and asked for passports and Amex. They brought fresh coffee and cognac with tiny biscotti. It was all very nice. The ladies stood in front of us as we enjoyed the snack so I asked if the hotel was nearby? Yes, yes, of course. After 10 minutes, the manager introduced himself and asked us to follow. We went in an elevator and he instructed the operator to take us to floor 10. On the 10th floor, we were shown a beautiful bar and were introduced to George, a well attired Nigerian and the only black man in Yerevan. George offered more coffee, drinks, pastries etc which we all declined. The lack of sleep was starting to take effect. We were taken to our rooms and once shown how to operate the sink and toilette was left alone. I went to lock the door and noticed there was no locking mechanism. Huh! I was tired, had a shower and went to sleep on the plywood mattress with 1/4 inch foam on it. After a couple of hours I woke up, got dressed and decided to go for a stroll. I stumbled across what I would later learn, was the Vernisagge Market. An open air market with vendors selling their wares. I came across Ivan. Ivan sold antiquities. Specifically, Armenian silk and wool rugs. They were beautiful, some colourful, some pastel but from age and wear. It was the latter that caught my eye. I asked Ivan how much and he started at 700 USD. "Nyet! Sto" was my response. He sneered and walked away. OK, he was not impressed with my 100 dollar counter offer. I left and wandered around the market and picked up a few pottery items. As I walked by Ivan on my way out I said "Dva Sto!". Nope. He shook his head and I left. Over the next few days I would swing by for another look. I really liked the rug and wondered when I might, if ever, be back. I tried him again at two hundred and he countered with 600. OK, he is interested. I stood around and managed to find an English speaker to translate. I mean, I was leaving the following afternoon. As the sun set and the rugs were being rolled up for the night, Ivan signalled me over and poured me a brandy in an old clay cup. We had a drink, he had a smoke and we gestured and laughed in my very broken Russian. He never mentioned the rug, we parted and I went back to the hotel. Departure morning, I got up, and cleaned up. Went down the hall to see George and enjoyed fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee and amazing croissants. After that, I took one last stroll through the market. Ivan just opened up and was unrolling rugs. When he stopped, I noticed my rug was not there. I stopped Ivan and asked about "rug". He gestured me to come to his store where he said "Tri stoni". Finally, a price we could both live with. I asked to see the rug and he handed it to me. Rolled and tied and covered in paper. I gave him the 300 dollars and we shook hands and smiled. I went back to the hotel, got changed and met the other crew with my purchase. I was so happy. When we got to the airport and went through security, the guards were very curious about the package. They opened it and pulled me aside. The asked for my antiquities permit. My what? This rug is an antique. You cannot take it without a certificate. I asked where to get one. "It is Sunday. Office is closed". I think I had the look of panic on my face. Another guard approached me as he had seen the little turmoil. "For 20 US dollars, I take it to you". Where? I said. He said, "Go through Immigration and security. Out of building look to right". Ok. I went out and looked right. The security guard was at the fence. He threw my rug over the fence and I gave him his 20 dollars. Broke a law but dammit, I fought hard for that rug. When I got it home, I had it cleaned and appraised. The guy said it was worth about $4000 but was not an antique. It was about 20 years old but hand woven and very well made. I think the airport guards were trying to stiff me for USD. It resides in my living room to this day. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petitepedal ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Share #2 Posted February 18, 2018 Could you pick up one for me on your next trip $500 usd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share #3 Posted February 18, 2018 4 minutes ago, petitepedal said: Could you pick up one for me on your next trip $500 usd Sadly, I have never been back. I hear it is an amazing place these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petitepedal ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Share #4 Posted February 18, 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrapr ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Share #5 Posted February 18, 2018 5 minutes ago, petitepedal said: Could you pick up one for me on your next trip $500 usd how much is that in Bitcoin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zephyr Posted February 18, 2018 Share #6 Posted February 18, 2018 Great story but...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share #7 Posted February 18, 2018 9 minutes ago, Zephyr said: Great story but...... Funnily enough, I had taken a lot of photos on that trip. The day before we left, I took a picture of a large Soviet statue over one of the main streets. Apparently, I took the picture across the parking lot of the French Embassy and the guards ran out and confiscated my camera. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randomguy Posted February 18, 2018 Share #8 Posted February 18, 2018 I am gonna be pissed if there isn't a picture of that rug posted here within 72 hours. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsnip Totin Jack ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Share #9 Posted February 18, 2018 There is no rug, just a story. A good story with a moral and a happy ending. But there is no rug on the pig's floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share #10 Posted February 18, 2018 5 minutes ago, Old#7 said: There is no rug, just a story. A good story with a moral and a happy ending. But there is no rug on the pig's floor. Ahem, I have 71 hours left in the request. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share #11 Posted February 18, 2018 Here is the place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmaxx ★ Posted February 18, 2018 Share #12 Posted February 18, 2018 Cool story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkpow Posted February 18, 2018 Share #13 Posted February 18, 2018 Is this your rug? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airehead Posted February 18, 2018 Share #14 Posted February 18, 2018 A delightful story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilbur ★ Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share #15 Posted February 19, 2018 On 2018-02-18 at 10:21 AM, Intestinal Parasite said: I am gonna be pissed if there isn't a picture of that rug posted here within 72 hours. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parsnip Totin Jack ★ Posted February 19, 2018 Share #16 Posted February 19, 2018 Lovely. Thanks for sharing your story and photos. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsharr ★ Posted February 19, 2018 Share #17 Posted February 19, 2018 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickinMD ★ Posted February 19, 2018 Share #18 Posted February 19, 2018 Great story, Wilbur! In 1996, I was traveling with a companion, Phyillis, who, at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, saw a beautifully patterned rug she loved but it was brown and she asked if the merchant had it in light gray. He sent an approx. 12 year-old boy running through the streets to the factory or warehouse to get one. We were treated to severely strong Turkish coffee as we waited. The kid came back with a great looking rug that I think Phyllis paid about $200 for with a Visa card. In our case, we were lucky and were able to have the rug shipped by the seller to the USA. Before buying, Phyllis asked if the rug could be shipped to America and was assured it would be. She took the chance, though I'm sure she could have canceled the credit card charge, and it soon arrived in New Jersey when we got back from a wonderful "Aegean Odyssey" cruise with 3 days in Athens, 6 days cruising, and 3 days in Istanbul. The next time I visit her, I'll have to ask where that rug is. I think it was in her piano room the last I saw her home. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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